South Shiel Ridge

The South Shiel ridge is a munroists dream, seven munros spread over a thirteen kilometre ridge with average drops of no more than 150 metres. It is a promenade through OS landranger map 33, my favourite map, with Knoydart to the south and the five Sisters and the Brothers of Kintail to the north. I once described the map to the OS Director-General as more than cartography, it was British Impressionism at its best and should be recognised as such. She was obviously pleased and a few days later I received a new copy of sheet 33 along with the 1:25,000 sheets of the same area.

Loch Cluanie from the ascent of Craig a'Mhaim

North Glen Shiel: the Five Sisters and Four Brothers of Kintail

Druim Shionnach and Craig a' Mhaim

Aonach air Chrith

Spidean Mialach and Gleouraich

Maol Chinn- dearg

Looking back from Sgurr a' Doire Leathain

From Sgurr an Doire Leathain

Sgurr an Lochain summit

Bealach Dubh Leac, Gleouraich in centre

Looking back from Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais

Friday, 1 June 2012
Distance: 22km
Ascent:    1975m
Time:       7hrs 48mins

m   Creag a' Mhaim                     947m      2:14
m   Druim Shionnaich                 987m      2:42
m   Aonach air Chrith                1021m      3:26
m   Maol Chinn-dearg                 981m      4:01
m   Sgurr an Doir Leathain         1010m     4:45
m   Sgurr an Lochan                   1004m    5:30
m   Creag nan Damh                    918m     6:25
c    Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais           885m     7:23   

I had cast a few envious glances at the South Glen Shiel ridge as I returned from the north last Sunday. It was six years since I last had been along it and I had always wanted to extend the ridge walk to include the Saddle with perhaps an overnight camp en route.  The forecast on Thursday evening was encouraging so I packed the rucksack and left just after 7am to catch the City Link 916 bus from Crianlarich to Skye. Unfortunately, as happens far too often on the A81, there was an accident and I was held up for 15 minutes north of Callander and then in a slow train of heavy vehicles. I missed the bus and decided to drive on and catch it at Fort William. The Service 916 must be Britain's finest bus journey: Glasgow, Loch Lomond, Rannoch Moor, Glencoe, Fort William, the Great Glen, Invergarry, Glen Shiel and over the sea (well bridge) to Uig in Skye for the boat to Harris.

It is usual to walk the ridge from east to west starting from the Cluanie Inn, which I did today. I had more stuff than I could easily fit in the 40-litre rucksack, my 15 minutes in Fort William had given me time to buy some bananas, apples, oat biscuits and I had taken my kindle to read on the bus. I spent 10 minutes repacking before taking the private road to Cluanie Lodge. After the bridge, there is a bend to the east and I walked along for a kilometre until I found the old stalker's path which climbed steeply up the shoulder of an outlying hill. It was midday and the weight of a full rucksack slowed me but I kept walking until reaching the Loch Maol a' Disnick. Time to fill up with water and then to climb the final 400 metres to the ridge below Creag a' Mhaim.  I dumped the rucksack on the ridge and climbed the last half kilometre to the summit. It is an undistinguished top and very much the runt of this chain of munros.

It is a quick and easy walk over to Druim Shionnach, the walker in front of me had completed his day and began his descent. The views to Gleouraich to the south were stunning and stayed with me for much of the day. I observed the meandering route ahead with several dips before the highest point of the ridge at Aonach air Chrith.  It is easy walking along mainly grassy slopes but the walk had begun to acquire a flowing rhythm reflecting the near perfect walking conditions.

The roughest section is along the rocky ridge to Maol Chinn-dearg, not particularly taxing but you need to concentrate. I caught up with another walker who seemed to be tiring and as we reached the summit he meandered off to find a route down whilst I took in some food and surveyed the splendid panorama in all directions. I continued to Sgurr an Doire Leathain, where I had a longer break and finished the last of my water. The views were even more striking as the sun began to drop and there were still slabs of snow that generated more light along the ridge. The paths were sparkling as the sun lit up the mica in the schistose rocks and it seemed that I had diamonds beneath the soles of my shoes.

The next section to Sgurr an Lochan is a fairly short and easy section but the last of the Munros, Creag na Damh, is a long tramp with a 200-metre drop before the steady climb to the flattish knolly summit. I had to decide how much further to go before making camp. There are some scrambling sections over rock bands immediately ahead and then the evening sun was encouraging me on the undulating trek to the bealach before the steep climb to the summit of the Corbett, Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais. It was 7:30pm and I needed some water, I was getting tired and the temperature was falling. The west coast was sparkling, Ben Nevis was a beacon to the south-east and the crenellated blue wavy horizon to the north was all mountains bright and beautiful which obviously included the Torridons. The benign conditions today were what every walker dreams about.

I looked around for potential camping spots and decided on the bealach below which was en route to Sgurr na Sgine. I found a reasonable flattish pitch for the tent that was surprisingly dry but then had to descend 150 metres to collect some water for my evening meal. A brew of tea, some soup with oat biscuits, and savoury rice were well received with nuts and raisins to nibble between courses. I felt that I had enjoyed one of the very best walks in perfect conditions. By 9:30pm as the temperature began to plummet, I turned in and must have been asleep within seconds.