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| In the Royal Palace |
Stockholm, 17 - 21 September 2026
As the 16-carriage express train pulled into Stockholm station around 4 pm, my phone buzzed with news that the Social Democrats and their potential partner parties had won a 3-seat majority in the General Election. Eureka, the Swedish Democrats, an extremist nationalist party, would be excluded from the next government. The journey from Goteborg had taken three and a quarter hours, through a landscape of forests and lakes with the occasional settlement, usually hosting more industrial buildings than houses. I stood outside the station and got my bearings; my hotel in the heart of Norrmalm was about a mile north and uphill from the station. I decided to walk to soak up the vibes of Sweden's capital city, with its array of impressive buildings, green spaces, and a pedestrian- and cycle-friendly urban realm.
The hotel was modern, with a large corner room on the top floor. Very Swedish, with all amenities available, and the receptionist gave me recommendations for good nearby restaurants. An hour or so was spent exploring the neighbourhood before selecting an Italian restaurant. The waitress was Palestinian and had settled into Swedish life with ease and gratitude. It appeared that Stockholm was a well-integrated cosmopolitan city, although my Swedish novel bought in Goteborg and partly read on the train suggested a darker side. The next few days had to be planned taking into account the weather forecasts, which were for mellow autumnal days with occasional showers.
A three-day ticket for the metro and buses for £16 and provided freedom across the city. First up was Gamla stan, the heart of the city, an island wedged into the waters between Norrmalm and Södermalm. The Royal Palace, Cathedral, and Nobel Museum were there, along with the panoply of attractions that gravitate around these magnets of global tourism. It was still early, and the streets were quiet. I admired the patterns of the cobbled streets and felt my way towards Stortoget, the square adjacent to the Nobel Museum. I entered the museum when it opened, and a guide was assigned to the first group of visitors. It is not a large museum, and the talk she gave was so much more revealing than I could have achieved by pottering round in my usual style of sampling whatever attracted my attention.
Alfred Nobel was a chemist and linguist whose wealth arose from the invention of dynamite and gelignite. He became the owner of Bofors, a steel producer that he transformed into an armament manufacturer. His wealth came from inventing ways to kill people; this reputation rankled with him, leading him to bequeath his considerable estate to more noble causes. Five prizes were to be given annually to eminent people of any nationality in the fields of physics, chemistry, medical science, or physiology, and for literary work. His final Prize was for the furtherance of international fraternity or Peace and was to be managed by the Norwegian Parliament, which would nominate five independent judges. This was to ensure that Sweden would not be seen to be influencing the decision. I was greatly moved by the tour and spent the next half hour in the cathedral, seated on a bench and reflecting.
A visit to the nearby Palace was tempting but there is a limit to how much culture can be observed in a day. I walked down to the harbour areas and booked a boat trip to the archipelago for Sunday. And then sauntered along some of the busy pedestrianised shopping streets, and had a late lunch in the dining pod of a cafe that spilt out into the road. I took the Metro to one of the coastal stops where a walk along the seafront to a large park looked inviting. The weather was changing, and I was confronted by docklands, dark clouds and a longish walk to the nearby parkland. It was time to rest my feet having already walked miles, so back to the hotel to read my novel and watch some news on TV.
The next day began with disappointment; I had read that there were tours around the Parliament and made that my first objective for the day. The guard on gate duty told me that there were no tours when the Parliament was not sitting and that in Sweden it took weeks before the next government was agreed following an election. The Royal Palace was close by, and the posters in the square outside made it look appealing. It is a monstrous building that could hold Buckingham Palace in its basement, where the crown jewels were kept with a collection of swords and crowns that belied the modest lifestyle of the Royals. King Carl XVI Gustaf and his wife Sylvia had been married on my birthday, 50 years ago, after becoming King in 1973. He was stripped of Executive powers in 1974, and from the photographic exhibition, they seemed to lead a very normal life, despite the history and opulence of the palaces and crown lands which are managed by the Swedish Royal Court.
Meetings of the Parliament take place in the Palace several times a year, and receptions for visiting heads of state are held in the Palace. There was a sumptuous gallery based on the Palace of Versailles and a reception room adorned with furniture, clocks, and display cabinets with extravagant uniforms that were probably even more expensive to make than if they had been sold by Fjällräven.
This made me think it was time to visit one of the large parks that surround Stockholm. I headed by Metro and then bus to Hagaparken, a Royal National City Park founded by Gustav III. There is a large lake that provides a 12-kilometre path that would have made a perfect run a couple of years ago. The University of Stockholm is located on the other side of the lake. A late lunch in a massive tented structure provided a rest before a splendid walk alongside the Lake; the park is home to many royal palaces and follies. Once again the rain clouds were gathering so a return to the hotel before some heavy rain that meant not going out.
Sunday was an early start to catch a boat from the quay at Strandvagen through the vast archipelago. The boat made rapid progress, slipping past dozens of islands, most of which had jetties and boathouses for islanders. Some islands had small beach huts, some larger dwellings with boathouses for larger craft. After an hour and forty minutes, we arrived at the island of Grinda, where we had 4 hours to explore an unspoilt island before catching the return boat. The island was lush with oak, pine, and birch trees, and clearings for sheep and cattle. Unfortunately, it was out of season, and none of the three cafes was open, and the holiday cabins were all closed at the end of the season. Two of the clearings were reserved for campers, and at the season's end there were a few tents and groups of campers were barbecuing lunch. The walks were splendid, particularly those that followed the coastline as they snaked around through the trees and pillows of granite.
I had circumnavigated the island after 3 hours and had chats with campers, islanders and fellow tourists. With an hour to kill, I pitched up on the verandah of one of the closed cafes and read my book. It was a shortish walk back to the jetty; the heavens opened, and the forty or so visitors squeezed into a large wooden shelter to await the boat for the return trip. The day had been a wonderful escape from the city, it had that end-of-season feeling, and I would be travelling home the next day. In the evening I rewarded myself with a return visit to the nearby Italian restaurant for some prawn linguine and a glass of wine,
Monday breakfast was another chance to enjoy fresh fruit, muesli and yoghurt, pancakes with raspberry jam and excellent coffee before grabbing some fruit for the return journey. I packed and caught a metro down to the station to stash my small suitcase in left luggage and free myself for a final lap of the city centre. The goods on display at the department stores were high quality and reasonably priced, but I had no space. The furniture was particularly appealing, making IKEA look very ordinary. By noon, I was weary and found a bench in a square opposite the Parliament Building to read for forty-five minutes before returning to the station for a snack and to reclaim my luggage before catching the train to Goteborg.
The comfortable train with excellent spacious seats and lots of legroom gave me time to finish my book before I was joined by a Swedish Scientist for the last hour. We had a long conversation about Swedish life and culture, Scotland and world events. He was positive about Goteborg but had a huge resentment about the use of electric scooters in the cities. They were a danger to pedestrians, a bit like the fast food electric bikes that travel at speed in Glasgow's supposed pedestrianised streets. I returned to the bookshop where I had bought my novel on the first day and thanked the assistant for recommending it. I had, unusually, managed to read 537 pages, and it had helped me understand some of the Swedish cultural problems, although being a crime novel, it seemed a lot darker than the easy-going vibe that had been the undercurrent of my visit.
The bus to the airport was an easy 25 minute trip but at the airport there was news that an air traffic control glitch at Prestwick meant the return flight would be delayed by a couple of hours and not be departing until after midnight. Fortunately, Goteborg Airport is a well-designed, clean airport with ample seating and numerous modest cafes. Getting through customs and passport control was a cinch.
Unlike the arrival at Edinburgh, where we had to wait for a bus to take the passengers from the landing stand to the other end of the airport. We climbed four levels of steps and walked about 600 metres to the Passport Control, where the queue at 1:30am took 15 minutes, and about one in four passengers, including myself, were sent to a manually controlled gate because the passport readers were unable to detect our bleary-eyed faces from the passports. Then another 10-minute wait for the luggage to arrive before the half-a -kilometre walk to the airport shuttle buses to the car parks. It had taken 1 hour and ten minutes from landing to getting to the car. Edinburgh Airport never fails to disappoint. Take me back to Sweden.
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| Church at Odenplan |
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| Royal Apartments |
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| Crown of King Karl XIII |
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| Gamla stan |
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| Cathedral |
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| Stortoget |
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| Nobel Museum at Stortorget |
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| Perfectly laid cobbles everywhere |
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| Hagaparkan lunch stop |
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| Hagaparkan Lake |
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| Royal Palace |
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| Strandvagen |
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| Archipelago Trip |
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| Island summer huts |
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| Island residencies |
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| Grinda |
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| Perimeter path on Grinda |
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| Grinda |
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| Grinda beach |
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| Grinda Trails |
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| Leaving Grinda |
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| Djurgarden Fun Fair |
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| Baltic Ferry |