2020 Vision from Lochcarron

2020 Vision on arrival

It was never supposed to be like this. 2020 is about having a clear vision of the future. Instead, we are languishing in a world where we are locked down, the economy is in tatters, there have been 65,000 excess deaths in the UK, we have the worst government in my lifetime, Brexit isn't done, the USA has been run into the oil sands of despair by a megalomaniac, asylum seekers are drowning as they seek safety and the younger generation are facing a lifetime of uncertainty as well as personal and national debts.

Everyone has a story to tell about how their lives have been changed by loneliness, financial ruin, mental health problems, family losses, sometimes suffused by the friendliness and support of neighbours and strangers. We have been luckier than most with space in the house and garden, access to the countryside, and the financial security and stability of pensions. We have lived frugally having changed to a vegetarian diet a year ago when our son came to stay for a few months whilst attempting to buy a new flat. We had a weekly grocery delivery during the early months of lockdown and only rarely ventured out to the shops or pharmacy. Even hill walking, the most isolated of activities, was banned from March until July, the best months of the year.

Normally we travel to London seven or eight times a year to see our daughters and grandchildren, we have not been since last December. We usually travel for a couple of weeks in the Ardeche in France, an area that we have visited almost every year since 2007 to stay at a chambres d'hotes whose owners have become good friends. We spend a week in the Lake District as we have done every year since 1984 where we catch up with family and friends. I usually make 20 or so trips to the Scottish mountains to exercise and enjoy the rigours of hard days to keep me ticking over. We try to have a city break to somewhere in Europe and every few years we book a trip to a more distant place. We were due one this year as we have spent the last few years building and moving house.

None of these things has happened this year, so when we heard that my brother's house in Lochcarron was available following a cancellation in October, we seized the week, packed enough provisions for a month and headed into the rain-washed West Highlands. It was a treat despite the October rain fest. Lochcarron also gave us chance to reflect on the strange happenings of 2020,  a sabbatical bereft of freedoms.

I had intended to tackle some of the difficult to reach Corbetts nearby and took my bike to help. The first full day on Sunday was to be dull but mainly dry so I packed to go to Kililan and cycle the Glen Elchaig to Iron Lodge from where I could climb Aonach Buidhe. It was not to be, a mouse had chewed through a water pipe in the attic with the resulting water dripping through two floors. The morning was spent mopping, finding the source of the damage and awaiting the plumber who had miraculously sorted the problem by lunchtime. 

We spent the afternoon in Plockton, making a complete circuit of the attractive coastal village that was awash with lots of visitors during the October school holidays. Monday was a complete washout so after a walk near Balmacara and topping up provisions in Kyle of Lochalsh it was back to the house for some reading time.

Gregor had arrived on Tuesday so we went to Shieldaig for a walk on the wild side in the rain to Bad Calida the peninsula that marks the entry to Upper Loch Torridon. It is one of our favourite short walks and the highlight was watching an otter as we returned to Shieldaig. The rains stopped at lunchtime and I grabbed the chance to drive up to Cluanie to cycle and walk up Beinn Loinne. Wednesday was very wet so we went to Glenelg and after a light lunch in the hotel we visited Sandaig where Gavin Maxwell had lived with otters at Cambusfearna. On the return we drove up Gleann Beag to visit the two Brochs, Dun Telve and Dun Troddan. Gregor returned via a 12 kilometre hill run crossing a swollen river and suffering more heavy rain before we collected him in Glen More.

Plockton on a wet Sunday

Loch Carron towards Duncraig Castle

Balmacara walk

Otter bay, Shieldaig

Shieldaig from the north

Maol Chean-dearg and An Ruadh Stac across Loch Damh

Cambusfearna, Sandaig

Dun Telve, Gleann Beag

Dun Troddan

Thurday and Friday gave us days for a bit of Munro bashing and a magical drive to Applecross and Shieldaig that are described in other posts. Our return home on Saturday was in heavy rain but we were back for 1pm, refreshed and deep cleansed by the bracing conditions of the West Highlands. Now we await the next lockdown.

2020 Vision on departure

Homeward Bound

 

Applecross to Torridon

Road sign to Applecross

Friday, 23 October 2020

After a week of rain-drenched days, we decided to go to Applecross. The Met Office forecast suggested there would be some sunny periods between the showers and the visibility would be good. Gregor had also decided that he wanted to run from Loch Kishorn to Bealach na Ba, a 10 kilometre run up the highest public road in Britain finishing at 626 metres or 2053 feet in imperial measure. 

The road has become a shrine for motorists, motorcyclists and nowadays convoys of camper vans. The sign at the start of the road is testimony to the craven desires of these tourists who have been attracted by the North Coast 500 publicity. Cyclists and runners are a different breed, they just want the buzz of secreting some endorphins and any graffiti is channelled through Strava. Gregor had checked the fastest time and although 44 minutes seemed about the time a camper van would achieve, he decided to make it his target. 

As we approached the start of the run at the junction of the road with the A896, dark clouds were skimming across from Skye, he decided to forsake the flimsy rain jacket and after a short warm-up, he started at 11:33 am. We drove on, stopping a couple of times for photos and arriving at the high point of the bealach just before noon. There had been a short shower but it had cleared and the views from the viewpoint were excellent. 

We had time to explore the various cairns and were pleasantly surprised when Gregor appeared at the top section in 44 minutes making the viewpoint and finish for the Strava route in just over 46 minutes, the second-fastest time ever, and having gained crowns (fastest times) on the lower part of the route. He was ecstatic and after pausing for some photographs and to take in the grandeur of the scenery for ten minutes, he began to run the descent to Applecross as his 'warm down'.

We picked him up after another 4 miles and drove down to the Applecross Hotel, which was welcoming and well prepared to provide a socially distanced lunch. Another shower passed through and when we emerged at 2pm we decided to take the coastal road to Shieldaig. We were not alone, there was a steady stream of visitors in Morgans, Aston Martins, and Alfa Romeo sports cars as well as a Highland Council Lorry all pushing us along as we tried to take in the spectacular scenery with views to Raasay, Rona and Skye. I think we passed the place, Uamh Bheag, where the Prime Minister took his famous summer holiday, erecting his tent in a neighbouring croft. The road was patrolled by Highland cattle and maintained by grazing sheep.

I have a particular affection for the road having spent a week in the summer of 1970 as a student carrying out a traffic survey for Ross and Cromarty County Council. They were planning to extend the coastal road from Shieldaig, which terminated at Kenmore, a further 18 miles to Applecross but they needed some data for the funding claim. Our remit was to stop every vehicle heading south on the A896 to establish whether they were heading for Applecross or Kenmore. We were camped at the municipal campsite at the north end of Shieldaig, which in those days was dotted with small tents of hikers and cyclists with the odd group of French visitors in their 2CVs.

The road was built in two sections over the following five years and the number of new dwellings along the route are an endorsement of the economic benefits that have accrued. The best was yet to come as we began the last section of the road overlooking Loch Torridon and then Loch Shieldaig. As we stopped at the viewpoint by Rhuroin, the dark clouds were over Torridon but clear blue skies were creeping in and a magnificent rainbow made a fleeting visit over Shieldaig island. 

The timing had been perfect and we thought we had extracted every glorious view on this typical west coast day. Realising that our luck was in we decided to head north from Shieldaig towards the Upper Loch Torridon viewpoint. Just as we arrived, the great Torridonian mountains slipped their cloud cover. Beinn Alligin and Liathach beamed us their happy sides and in the middle stood Beinn Dearg, the highest Corbett in Scotland at 2999 feet. Hopefully, it will be my last Corbett during a visit sometime next year. We drove back to Lochcarron having salvaged a wonderful day despite the dire predictions from the Met Office. 

Kishorn Yard

The Bealach na Ba road

Beinn Bhan from Bealach na Ba

View of Skye from summit of Bealsch na Ba

Gregor completing ascent

Applecross Hotel

Meallabhan beach with Raasay behind

Traffic warden

Uamh Bheag, the PMs summer hideaway?

Looking across to Rona

More traffic wardens

Fearnmore

Shieldaig and Torridons

Loch Shieldaig

Loch Torridon

Shieldaig

Beinn Alligin

Liathach

Beinn Dearg in middle - last and highest Corbett

 

Beinn Fhada

Beinn Fhada summit

Thursday, 22 October 2020

Ascent:       1015 metres
Distance:    14 kilometres
Time:          4 hours 43 minutes

Beinn Fhada   1029m      2hrs 43mins

It was another day of October rain with the cloud level down to 600 metres. I had originally intended to cycle 22 kilometres up Glen Elchaig from Kililan to climb the distant Corbett, Aonach Buidhe but 6 hours in the rain did not appeal. We looked at the alternatives and Gregor decided to climb A' Ghlas Bheinn and Beinn Fhada. At the last minute, I decided to join him but as I was not feeling great, I decided to restrict my climb to Beinn Fhada so that Gregor could charge round at his own pace. We parked at the car park for the Falls of Glomach at 11:30 am and followed the narrow but well-graded path up Gleann Choinneachain. 

After the first couple of kilometres ascent I suggested that Gregor should climb A' Ghlas Bheinn first, it looked to be emerging from the clouds and it would allow me to adopt a more sedate pace on the longer climb up Beinn Fhada. All being well, I could have a break at the summit before he arrived. He was in trail shoes and travelling light, I had boots and after the first hour, it was full waterproofs. The burns were in full spate but with the aid of a walking pole, I managed across the Allt a' Choire Chaoil with dry feet. Gregor was ten minutes ahead heading for Bealach an Sgairne for the ascent of A' Ghlas Bheinn.

The path from here is well-graded and contours upwards in Coire an Sgairne before rising more steeply over two sections to reach the ridge at 750 metres. The rains had started and the cloud level dropped down to 500 metres. From here it is a boggy tramp of a mile or so to the summit located on the less exciting east end of the mountain. I had managed a steady pace and it was just after 2pm. It was quite warm and the wind was less than forecast so I settled down in the substantial shelter and spent twenty minutes of mindfulness, whatever that is, whilst eating and drinking a little. 

There was no rush and I had descended about 150 metres before I met Gregor on his ascent. He told me to push on and that he would set off back straightaway from the summit. I did apart from a couple of stops for photos and I got back to within the last half kilometre before he caught up and ran past me. We were both quite pleased with the outing despite the rain and generally poor visibility and to be back at the house before 5 pm was a further luxury.

The path below Allt a' Choire Chaoil

Allt a' Choire Chaoil crossing

Looking back down Gleann Choinneachain

A' Ghlas Bheinn and Bealach an Sgairne

Coire an Sgairine path

Faradh Nighean Fhearchair

Beinn Loinne (Cluanie)

The walk up Beinn Loinne

Tuesday, 20 October 2020

Ascent:        607 metres

Distance:    19 kilometres (11km on bike)

Time:           3 hours 26 minutes

Beinn Loinne        789m     2hrs 11mins (45mins on bike)

It was another wet day in Lochcarron, Aileen, Gregor and I had driven over to Shieldaig in the morning and had a walk in the rain on the peninsula north of the village. We were back at Lochcarron at 1:30pm and after a quick lunch, I put the bike on the car's roof and set off for Cluanie to climb Beinn Loinne, the Corbett south of Loch Cluanie. I had always intended to climb it when either travelling north for a few days walking or on the return. I had assumed it would take less than 3 hours, which might have been twenty years ago. It took 40 minutes to reach the Cluanie Inn and I parked at the start of the track, which is a private road to Cluanie Lodge. It continues as a disused track that ascends a bealach at 410 metres between Creag a' Mhaim, the most easterly of the Cluanie ridge Munros, and Beinn Loinne. 

It was dry for the first time in days and a wintry-looking sun was emerging as I set off on the bike. The rough road surface and over 200 metres of ascent did not make for an easy cycle, although for the only time in the day, the views opened up and even a couple of stags seemed intent on taking in their domain. They provided some photo opportunities and a welcome chance to stop pedalling for a few minutes. I rode a few hundred metres beyond the high point of the road so that I could take advantage of a slight ridge that was preferable to starting the walk through a rain-soaked bog, it was worth the extra distance. The views back down Glen Shiel and northwards to Ciste Dubh and A' Chralaig were a bonus after the last couple of days when the hills had been wrapped in low grey clouds. The underfoot conditions were dire but that had been factored in so my expectations of a mind-numbing ascent were confirmed.

I headed for the rounded shoulder of Druim nan Cnamh and only when above 650 metres did the terrain become drier with a scattering of exposed rock giving better traction. By this time the cloud level had dropped and there were no views from the summit. There was just a desolate-looking Vanessa trig point on a rock ledge over a sea of grey nothingness. 

The rain started as I began the descent, the main aim was to get back to the bike before nightfall. The clouds made navigation tricky and, in attempting to avoid the worst of the bogs, I ended up about 800 metres south of where I had dumped the bike. I was glad I had worn my cycle helmet because the ride back was all downhill with the brakes constantly in use as I fought gravity, potholes and bad light. I arrived at the car at 6:30pm, having barely turned a pedal but with arms and hands burning from the constant pummeling from the front suspension. It was dark and still raining but with only a 40-minute drive for a shower and some food, this was a rare treat compared to most outings on the hills.

Stag above Loch Cluanie

Looking east over Loch Cluanie

Aonach Meadhoin and Am Bathach from the track

Am Bathach and A'Chralaig

Beinn Loinne summit

 

Shelloch Burn Wind Farm, Campsies

Shelloch Burn

Looking over the Campsies we can see the tips of several wind turbines rotating slowly. The Earlesburn wind farm has been operating since 2007 with 15 original turbines and a further 9 to the west at Kingsburn. They have been a successful installation not least because of the partnership with the local Community of Fintry, which, through the Fintry Development Trust that has the ownership of a turbine, provides a funding stream that has been used with imagination to fund energy efficiency measures, children's play provision and funding for subsidising transport. These initiatives are part of the community's objective to become carbon neutral.

A new application was submitted for a further five turbines to replace eight that already had been granted planning permission. The applicant claims that the five new turbines will not be visible to the nearest village, Kippen, but I suspected that they probably will be from Thornhill. We decided to take a walk to the Moor where the Shelloch Burn runs and which will be the site for these turbines. The Glinns Road runs alongside the Boquan Burn from the A811 before the Kippen roundabout and climbs steadily below the Campsies on its way to Fintry. I dropped Aileen at the start of the track at Ballochleam leading to the Campsies and parked a mile north at the nearest space on the narrow road. 

It was cool and breezy as we set out, it is a steady incline at first but ramps up after a gate by a lone pine tree for the final kilometre towards the Spout of Ballochleam. I had plotted the position of the proposed turbines on an OS map, they were located on the moorland to the south of the Spout where the Shelloch Burn flows in a north-easterly direction. My initial impressionion had been that the turbines would be hidden by Lees Hill, which at 411 metres is up to 100 metres higher than the moorland where the five new turbines are to be positioned. 

Closer examination of the application by Force 9 Energy, shows that three of the new turbines would be 180 metres high and the other two turbines 149.5 metres high. The applicants state that by increasing the height and length of the blades there will be 83% more electricity generated than by the eight turbines that previously had been granted permission. Although the developers have not produced a visualisation of the turbines from Thornhill, it is the only village apart from the Port of Menteith from where the turbines will be visible, an intrusive presence overlooking Flanders Moss. The extra height of the proposed turbines will also make them visible from Thornhill over Lees Hill. In itself, this is not a major issue but one that should be examined in considering the application.

The access route for the construction of the new wind farm is via the narrow road from Arnprior. A new track that starts from the Glinns Road will follow the Boqhan Burn to the Spout of Ballochleam through a splendid unspoilt landscape. Whilst the proposals by Force 9 Energy are well presented and the arguments in favour of the development are cogently argued, it is these two issues: the size of the turbines and the access route for construction that give the most concern. 

 

Force 9 Energy have offered local communities the chance to invest in up to 10% of the development and to receive an annual income stream. It appears to be a positive support of local communities and Gargunnock and Kippen both seem to have been given additional funding despite neither of them having the turbines in the line of vision. However, few communities have more than a few £'000 to invest so the prospect of them investing in the scheme is limited unless this could be offset against a future income stream such as negotiated by Fintry for the Earlsburn wind farm. The application will be submitted late this year and it would be worth discussing with the developers if more appropriate community benefits could be negotiated..

 

Notice at Spout of Ballochleam

Looking North to Ben Ledi and Stuc a' Chroin

The existing turbines

Shelloch site looking south