Sunday, 13 November 2011

Ben Starav

Summit of Ben Starav - happiness
Glen Etive
Crossing the river - a risky task
Ben Cruachan 

Beinn nan Aighenan - reward
Ben Cruachan from Beinn nan Aighenan

Glencoe hills from Ben Starav



Loch Etive from the summit

Bidean nam Bian under November skies

Sunday, 13 November 2011

Ascent:       1525m
Distance:        19km
Time:               7 hrs 5mins

Beinn nan Aighenan      957m       3hrs 28mins    
Stob Coire Dheirg        1028m       4hrs 40mins
Ben Starav                   1078m       5hrs 19mins

We had decided to visit Ben Starav late on Saturday night but began to have second thoughts as we drove north with the cloud level down to 400 metres and the dark grey sky instilling an immediate sense of gloom. By Bridge of Orchy there were signs of light and the long descent into Glen Etive from the King's House gave us some hope. As we parked at the end of the glen, a 25-minute drive down Glen Etive on the single-track road, the view back to the two Buchailles was mightily impressive.

From the parking space just before Loch Etive House, we followed the track down to cross the River Etive, almost falling forty feet into the deep pool below as we leant on the not-very-sturdy railings.  We traversed across the flat boggy field behind Coiletir's house until reaching the river which was swollen and proved difficult to cross. It was a long haul up the path alongside the Allt nam Meirleach to the bealach at 766m that sits between Ben Starav and Glas Beinn Mhor.  Progress was slow through the boggy ground and there was a stiff wind being funnelled down the glen. We entered the clouds just before we reached the bealach.  It seemed destined to be one of those nearly days; we could see back to last Sunday's hill, Beinn Fhionnlaidh, which was radiant in the midday sunlight.  Last week at this time we had cast our glance enviously at Ben Starav, which was basking in the sun.

We were faced with a 'was it near or was it far' grey mist as we set out for Beinn nan Aighenan. We dropped to 620 metres before starting the long climb up its rocky and interesting north ridge. A peregrine soared past us and as we approached the summit the clouds drifted away.  We were perched on the yellow-green summit plateau enjoying a panorama of peaks rippling all around us, apart from Ben Starav, which remained under its cap of cloud.  It had made the day worthwhile and on our descent, we were able to encourage a couple of walkers who were flagging and deciding whether to make the climb up Beinn nan Aighenan that it was worth the effort.

We arrived back at the bealach by 2:30pm and decided to give Glas Bheinn Mhor a miss. We would take a chance on finding some better conditions on Ben Starav although it was still in the cloud.  We were not disappointed and as we passed a lone female walker coming down she said that the summit was out of the cloud. Her proud Preston accent made this very believable. We chatted for 10 minutes in the animated way that you sometimes do on the hills, we had a home town and a passion for hillwalking in common. The climb to Stob Coire Dheirg was stiff but we walked above the clouds and experienced an hour or so of superb lighting with the views to Glencoe quite spectacular.

We marched around the airy ridge in awe at the splendid scenery and dallied for 10 minutes on the summit, the conditions were sublime.  The descent was long and steep and the light was beginning to fade but we made good time down the steep, stony and at times boggy path and found the river crossing before dark. The walk across the boggy field was just as difficult as on the ascent but we arrived at the car without the need to use a headtorch and we watched with satisfaction as the two walkers who were just behind us at the summit were still descending the hill with their head torches often static and confirming the difficulty of the descent in the dark.  It had been a day with hopes dashed and then gloriously resurrected by the late afternoon sun.

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