Beinn a' Beithir

Sgorr Dhonuill from Sgorr Dhearg

After the heatwave of late March, the weather had been colder and today was forecast to be the last day of sun for a week or so. Moreover, the best of the weather was to be in the west, so it seemed a good excuse to climb Beinn Beithir which includes two munros at the head of Glencoe with glorious seascapes to the west. I had only been here in winter conditions or in mid-summer before so this would give me a chance to walk it in more conducive conditions.  I started early so that I could be home mid-afternoon. The drive through Glencoe was simply stunning, the cold crisp morning air was sharp and visibility excellent and the further west I travelled the bluer became the sky. Sun and cold are my favourite weather conditions for walking.

I have driven through Glencoe on over a hundred occasions over the past twenty-two years of hill walking for days in Glencoe or Fort William, weekends further north or for walking week holidays but the scenery surpassed itself this morning.  All the familiar hills along the A82 were capped in snow, they were like ice buns that needed to be scoffed. I could not resist stopping for photos of the landmark mountains along the route and I was sure that Beinn Beithir would sate my appetite.

Ben Lui

Beinn Dorain

Across Rannoch Moor to Creise and Meall a'Bhuridh

Buchaille Etive Mor

Sgorr Dhearg

Ballahulish

Sgorr Dhearg with Bidean nam Bian behind

A fleeting glimpse of Ben Nevis

Creag Ghorm and Loch Linnhe from Sgorr Dhonuill

Looking SW from Sgorr Dhonuill to Lismore, Loch Linnhe and Mull

Looking down Gleann a' Chaolais to Ballahulish

Saturday, 14 April 2012
Distance: 13 kilometres
Ascent: 1265 metres
Time: 3hrs 56mins

m   Sgorr Dhearg       1024m      1hr   48mins
m   Sgorr Dhonuill     1001m      2hrs 32mins

I parked at the foot of Gleann a' Chaolais beyond the new houses that nestled below the massive bulk of Beinn Beithir. I wondered whether the houses would receive any sun in the winter months. There is a good car park provided by Forestry Enterprise and only a couple of cars were there before me. There had also been some signage provided so that I was able to follow a couple of paths that led through the forest and above the treeline en route for the bealach between the two munros.

I decided to give the bealach a miss and make a direct climb up to Sgorr Dhearg - 400 metres of a slog up scree and grass but it probably saved 15 minutes. I caught a couple of walkers before the summit, they had set out at 5am from home and feeling the worse for the climb had decided to give Sgorr Dhonuill a miss, I tried to persuade them otherwise. There was a rind of snow on the ridge and it provided good footfall for the descent to the bealach. At the bealach, another 3 walkers had assembled and I was asked about routes off the two summits. Although it was only 11am they were contemplating doing just one of the summits as well, I told them that the quickest descent was from Sgorr Dhonuill and that they should seize the chance to do both hills having already done the hard work.

The climb up to Sgorr Dhonuill is unrelenting but always interesting with two steeper sections including a rocky outcrop near the granite summit.  You arrive on the summit platform at the end of a scramble and are faced with a spectacular view down Loch Linnhe. The sun had finally burnt off the cloud on Ben Nevis which became visible for the first time. Looking to the east there was quite a lot of cloud cover. I was in the optimal location and despite the cold wind the sun's rays were warming and the views were unforgettable.

The descent to the west is an absolute delight for the first mile or so: down the snow, over a rock band and towards the lochans that glisten on the granite shelves that overlook the sea. I met and spoke to a couple slogging their way up but totally enchanted by the landscape and then found the steep scree-filled gulley that leads back to the forest. The scree was partly frozen and the footings were not easy but it was a quick descent. Back on the forest trails, there were a couple of kilometres down the glen to the car park.  I ran down much of the track and managed back within 4 hours, my fastest round of these hills although the conditions had been kind, no crampons, boggy ground or summer listlessness today. I was home by 3pm which must be a record. I was an hour ahead of schedule and it allowed me to listen to the football and watch the Grand National.