Total Total Section Section
Wednesday, 23 May 2012 Distance Time Ascent Descent
White Corries to Altnafeadh 6km 1:01 120m 85m
Altnafeadh to Kinlochleven 16km 2:51 285m 570m
Kinlochleven to Fort William 39km 7:27 610m 615m
This was the final leg of the attempt on a three day walk of the West Highland Way (WHW) and took place on the hottest day of the year so far, 25°C. I left home at 7:30am to drive to Crianlarich to catch the Glasgow to Skye bus that dropped me at the White Corries Ski resort close to the Kingshouse Hotel. I was able to use my One Scotland bus pass and every other passenger on the bus seemed to have either one of these or a student travel pass. The City link bus service was excellent with the timetable strictly adhered to and a very comfortable and speedy bus.
I wasted no time on alighting and soon made the Kingshouse hotel which has a bunkhouse and campsite. A sizable number of campers and a few parties of walkers were setting off in both directions. The narrow path that runs parallel to the road for about 5km was full of WHW walkers mainly on their way to Kinlochewe, I would estimate the ratio of south to north compared to north to south is about 12:1. At the start of the climb up the Devil's staircase I stripped down to shorts and T shirt. It was a sissy climb, not very hard, according to a couple from Hebden Bridge who were walking two very scary looking bull terriers; they certainly made me feel a cissy as I inched past them and accelerated away from them. The views back to Glencoe were spectacular with Buchaille Etive Mor dominating the foreground and the views down Glen Etive also tantalising.
At the summit of the ridge I took photographs for some walkers before starting the charge down to Kinlochleven. The iPod had shuffled to Angelique Kidjo and the happy African music accompanied me for a couple of kilometres of running free. The path eventually levelled off and I was singing along with the music as a couple of German girls enjoyed telling me as I passed them. They were on a 9 day walk of the WHW and, given the size of their packs, even this was quite an accomplishment. Further on another group of Germans asked about Bidean nam Bian which they had climbed on a diversion the previous day after camping in the Lost Valley. They thought was one of the best places they had ever visited. I assured them that Bidean was the best munro south of the Great Glen, which seemed to be the answer that they wanted. I was running at a good pace and during the long descent to Kinlochleven the only discomfort was the ever increasing heat. I was in the town by noon, about 30 minutes ahead of schedule.
There was no time to stop with 23 kilometres still to go if I wanted to catch the 5pm bus back from Fort William. So it was straight through the town and I decided to complete the 250 metres of stiff climbing through the woodland on the other side of Loch Leven before stopping for some lunch at the top just before the path joins the old military road. I was joined at my rocky viewpoint by a keen walker from Edinburgh who was climbing the Corbetts. We walked along for the next couple of kilometres engaged in animated conversation about wilderness Scotland before he struck off to climb Mam na Gualainn.
By this time there were no other walkers about and the long walk up to the ruins at Lairigmor was a pleasant interlude in the heat of the afternoon sun. I stopped to fill up with water from the burns on a couple of occasions but I was beginning to realise that I was going to be up against it to catch the bus so I upped the pace before meeting an elderly athlete coming the other way. He was running from John O' Groats to Lands End covering 20 or so miles every day and had an easy rhythm which suggested he would do it. His example prompted me to start running along the flattish section ahead before entering the forest which has been recently felled. Just as I thought I was on the final descent the path climbed again at Blar a' Chaorainn and there was a steepish section which emerged at a viewpoint for the ever closer vision of Ben Nevis. It was looking almost friendly in its summer colours.
I was catching up with groups of walkers who were on the Kinlochleven to Fort William leg. As I hit the forest road at about 4pm there was still 7 to 8 kilometres to go. I ran down the good gravel track through the forest to Glen Nevis and then along the road from Glen Nevis to Fort William. There were lots of walkers limping along this final section of the walk and it felt a bit insensitive to be running past them but the prospect of just missing the bus was not an option to be entertained so I continued until I arrived at the bus station adjacent to the railway station with just 10 minutes to spare. It was an extra 1km of running from the original finish* of the West Highland Way at the roundabout. I missed the finish sign as I nipped across the road through gaps in the traffic. The bus was on time and provided a relaxing trip back to Crianlarich with wonderful views through Glencoe and as we crossed Rannoch Moor. Bidean nam Bian looked resplendent and I reflected on the climb up the Dinnertime Buttress on January 2, 1989 that had inspired twenty three years of munro bashing and four compleations.
So I had completed the walk in three days as planned, a reasonable achievement for my age, although I still regret not attempting the 24 hour race over the route during my forties when it would have been a realistic target. It had been demanding and I rarely stopped or dropped the pace very much on any of the days. I think on balance it is probably better done over a longer period or at a pace more in keeping with someone who has a bus pass. The feeling of tiredness on the journey home today was similar to that after running a marathon. I was home just after 7pm and a bath followed by bottle of the 'exquisitely lovely' Thwaites Wainwrights Golden Ale sitting outside in the evening sun soothed my recovery.
*Footnote: The finish has moved to the bottom of the High street, an extra kilometre from the station, but this was not in my guidebook or on my map. It is not very handy for those finishers who want to catch a bus or a train or get a taxi to their accommodation. I walked this section on my way back from climbing the Saddle a couple of weeks later. The extension of the walk is an unfortunate example of local traders trying to grab a bit of extra business. They should realise that at the end of a walk like this your feet are weary and wallets are empty. The reality is that it is probably late afternoon, the shops are closing and you want a drink, a shower and a rest. A far better finish would be at the top of the High Street in the park adjacent to Nevis Sport and only across the road from the bus and railway stations. I spoke to the Tourist office about this and was told that they had had many similar complaints but they clearly had no intention of doing anything about it. Walking has become a business opportunity as well as a recreational activity.
Wednesday, 23 May 2012 Distance Time Ascent Descent
White Corries to Altnafeadh 6km 1:01 120m 85m
Altnafeadh to Kinlochleven 16km 2:51 285m 570m
Kinlochleven to Fort William 39km 7:27 610m 615m
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| Bus Drop at White Corries |
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| Kingshouse and Buchaille Etive Mor |
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| Buchaille Etive Mor |
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| A busy start from the Kingshouse |
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| Bichaille Etive Mor |
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| Top of the Devil's staircase Mamores and Ben Nevis ahoy |
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| Descent to Kinlochleven |
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| Above Kinlochleven |
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| Kinlochleven, the Aluminium works |
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| Towards Lairigmor |
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| Lairigmor |
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| Descent to Glen Nevis |
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| Ben Nevis in summer attire |
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| Bidean nam Bian dinnertime gully from A82 on the bus |
This was the final leg of the attempt on a three day walk of the West Highland Way (WHW) and took place on the hottest day of the year so far, 25°C. I left home at 7:30am to drive to Crianlarich to catch the Glasgow to Skye bus that dropped me at the White Corries Ski resort close to the Kingshouse Hotel. I was able to use my One Scotland bus pass and every other passenger on the bus seemed to have either one of these or a student travel pass. The City link bus service was excellent with the timetable strictly adhered to and a very comfortable and speedy bus.
I wasted no time on alighting and soon made the Kingshouse hotel which has a bunkhouse and campsite. A sizable number of campers and a few parties of walkers were setting off in both directions. The narrow path that runs parallel to the road for about 5km was full of WHW walkers mainly on their way to Kinlochewe, I would estimate the ratio of south to north compared to north to south is about 12:1. At the start of the climb up the Devil's staircase I stripped down to shorts and T shirt. It was a sissy climb, not very hard, according to a couple from Hebden Bridge who were walking two very scary looking bull terriers; they certainly made me feel a cissy as I inched past them and accelerated away from them. The views back to Glencoe were spectacular with Buchaille Etive Mor dominating the foreground and the views down Glen Etive also tantalising.
At the summit of the ridge I took photographs for some walkers before starting the charge down to Kinlochleven. The iPod had shuffled to Angelique Kidjo and the happy African music accompanied me for a couple of kilometres of running free. The path eventually levelled off and I was singing along with the music as a couple of German girls enjoyed telling me as I passed them. They were on a 9 day walk of the WHW and, given the size of their packs, even this was quite an accomplishment. Further on another group of Germans asked about Bidean nam Bian which they had climbed on a diversion the previous day after camping in the Lost Valley. They thought was one of the best places they had ever visited. I assured them that Bidean was the best munro south of the Great Glen, which seemed to be the answer that they wanted. I was running at a good pace and during the long descent to Kinlochleven the only discomfort was the ever increasing heat. I was in the town by noon, about 30 minutes ahead of schedule.
There was no time to stop with 23 kilometres still to go if I wanted to catch the 5pm bus back from Fort William. So it was straight through the town and I decided to complete the 250 metres of stiff climbing through the woodland on the other side of Loch Leven before stopping for some lunch at the top just before the path joins the old military road. I was joined at my rocky viewpoint by a keen walker from Edinburgh who was climbing the Corbetts. We walked along for the next couple of kilometres engaged in animated conversation about wilderness Scotland before he struck off to climb Mam na Gualainn.
By this time there were no other walkers about and the long walk up to the ruins at Lairigmor was a pleasant interlude in the heat of the afternoon sun. I stopped to fill up with water from the burns on a couple of occasions but I was beginning to realise that I was going to be up against it to catch the bus so I upped the pace before meeting an elderly athlete coming the other way. He was running from John O' Groats to Lands End covering 20 or so miles every day and had an easy rhythm which suggested he would do it. His example prompted me to start running along the flattish section ahead before entering the forest which has been recently felled. Just as I thought I was on the final descent the path climbed again at Blar a' Chaorainn and there was a steepish section which emerged at a viewpoint for the ever closer vision of Ben Nevis. It was looking almost friendly in its summer colours.
I was catching up with groups of walkers who were on the Kinlochleven to Fort William leg. As I hit the forest road at about 4pm there was still 7 to 8 kilometres to go. I ran down the good gravel track through the forest to Glen Nevis and then along the road from Glen Nevis to Fort William. There were lots of walkers limping along this final section of the walk and it felt a bit insensitive to be running past them but the prospect of just missing the bus was not an option to be entertained so I continued until I arrived at the bus station adjacent to the railway station with just 10 minutes to spare. It was an extra 1km of running from the original finish* of the West Highland Way at the roundabout. I missed the finish sign as I nipped across the road through gaps in the traffic. The bus was on time and provided a relaxing trip back to Crianlarich with wonderful views through Glencoe and as we crossed Rannoch Moor. Bidean nam Bian looked resplendent and I reflected on the climb up the Dinnertime Buttress on January 2, 1989 that had inspired twenty three years of munro bashing and four compleations.
So I had completed the walk in three days as planned, a reasonable achievement for my age, although I still regret not attempting the 24 hour race over the route during my forties when it would have been a realistic target. It had been demanding and I rarely stopped or dropped the pace very much on any of the days. I think on balance it is probably better done over a longer period or at a pace more in keeping with someone who has a bus pass. The feeling of tiredness on the journey home today was similar to that after running a marathon. I was home just after 7pm and a bath followed by bottle of the 'exquisitely lovely' Thwaites Wainwrights Golden Ale sitting outside in the evening sun soothed my recovery.
*Footnote: The finish has moved to the bottom of the High street, an extra kilometre from the station, but this was not in my guidebook or on my map. It is not very handy for those finishers who want to catch a bus or a train or get a taxi to their accommodation. I walked this section on my way back from climbing the Saddle a couple of weeks later. The extension of the walk is an unfortunate example of local traders trying to grab a bit of extra business. They should realise that at the end of a walk like this your feet are weary and wallets are empty. The reality is that it is probably late afternoon, the shops are closing and you want a drink, a shower and a rest. A far better finish would be at the top of the High Street in the park adjacent to Nevis Sport and only across the road from the bus and railway stations. I spoke to the Tourist office about this and was told that they had had many similar complaints but they clearly had no intention of doing anything about it. Walking has become a business opportunity as well as a recreational activity.
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| Still standing at the new finish |
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