Amsterdam

Black bikes and canals the colour of washing water

Tourism boats

Wheeling home

Not all bikes are black

Amsterdam Central Station

NEMO Science museum 

The threatened swan by Jan Asselijn, Rijksmuseum

Japanese temple guardian in the Rijksmuseum

Rembrandt's Night Watchmen in bronze, Rembrandt Square

A walk along the Prinsengracht canal 

Web of tram wires

Nursery commuter

Vondel Park near the museums

"Holland is not only the Europe of the counting-house, but the sea, the sea that leads to Cipango and those islands where men die happy and insane. I like its people, swarming on the pavements, wedged into their little space of houses and water, encircled by mists, cold earth and a sea that steams like damp washing." Albert Camus, The Fall

And so it did for four days, although the cold winds kept the mist at bay as the city delayed the onset of spring. The damp air hung over the canals and made the cyclists pedal faster to keep warm. Our intention had been to visit the museums and absorb the soundtrack of a city that is almost free of carbon emitting vehicles. It was not a relaxing place to walk about with the silent approach of trams and cycles converging on us gave us the collywobbles as we crossed junctions and bridges. Everywhere the bikes were a sign of the egalitarian nature of the city. Children in seats, older ladies in smart clothes, students, and office workers mingled easily. There was an almost total absence of sporty bikes; black bikes with high handlebars, baskets and toddler trailers made the cyclists the land bound equivalent of the swans as they endlessly drifted past.

This was a first visit to the city and it had been prompted by weeks of wet miserable weather at home. We should have gone somewhere warmer but there were few flights available at three days notice. Central station is the hub of the city but like many stations it is cheerless and we were glad that we had chosen to stay at the edge of the canals in Leidsplein. It was close to the park and museums and on the tram routes.The trip was studded with visits to the pride of museums that litter Amsterdam: Van Gogh museum, the Rijksmuseum, Anne Frank's House, the Shipping museum, and Rembrandt's House. Van Gogh being the standout, although we probably learnt most about Amsterdam and the history of the Netherlands at the Shipping Museum. The museums provided destinations for us to traverse across the central areas and become familiar with the canals, the coffee shops and the multi cultured nature of this seafaring city. We decided against using the trams and just walked. We met some Americans from Boston in a coffee shop and spent a rainy lunchtime debating the state of the world.  We were so wet later that day we retreated to a picture house to dry out.

Dutch food is not something to drool over but we managed to find a traditional Indonesian restaurant and a good Italian restaurant amidst the dairy, pork and pastry fare on offer.  The Dutch people we encountered were courteous and kind, although one shopkeeper gave vent to her feelings about wealthy Russian,  Indian and Chinese tourists - they were rude, arrogant and not to be trusted. Amsterdam is a city that has been a melting pot for centuries and people are judged on the way they behave not the size of their wallets or their race.

In the flower market