Trains and trains and trains

The Good - Flying Scotsman on King's Cross to York Rail Museum 

The Good - Chiltern Railways -fast, cheap and new rolling stock

The Bad and pricey- Virgin Trains

The Bad and dirty - Cross Country trains

The Ugly, old and slow Northern Trains

What an absurd system of railways we have in Britain. Complex, disjointed and diverse but not in a good way. My latest two-day expedition getting from Scotland to London captured all that is wrong as well as some of the good things about the rail service we now have to endure.

The journey was from Edinburgh to Sheffield for a training event, then on to Banbury for a family reunion and finally to London. Three journeys, four trains, and four train operators with a set of advanced tickets bought online from Virgin Trains that required me to make a trip to the nearest railway station to collect the tickets. We set off in plenty of time to catch the train from Edinburgh. It took two and a half hours for what is normally a 50-minute drive to Edinburgh airport and a half-hour journey by express bus.

The motorway was clogged as a result of Scottish Water closing one lane of a dual carriageway into Edinburgh causing a 7-mile tailback onto the motorway. They were not even working on the carriageway but on the adjacent grass verge. It took over an hour to cover these 7 miles and my wife missed her flight to London by a couple of minutes. British Airways acknowledged the unexpected traffic delays and transferred her to the next flight at no cost. Transport Scotland needs to excoriate Scottish Water for both the inappropriate timing and unnecessary extent of their road closure. According to the airport, several hundred people missed their flights, whilst thousands of commuters, were delayed. Getting to Edinburgh and its airport from the west and north is a hazardous occupation nowadays and that will probably be further exacerbated when the new Forth Bridge opens.

Travelling on to Waverley station on the express bus I missed my train by fifteen minutes. Virgin trains charged me an additional £66 on top of my train-specific ticket for travelling on the next Sheffield train. The train was quite devoid of passengers so it was a penalty for being a pay-as-you-go customer, you know the way we always used to buy rail tickets. There was certainly no customer sympathy but Virgin trains have no positive reputation to protect, they are more akin to Ryanair than British Airways. The well-worn carriages had been repainted in the garish Virgin train livery since they had taken over the franchise from the publicly owned East Coast trains. It was a pure marketing ploy and a great pity that they had not re-upholstered the seats or refitted the filthy toilets instead. But passengers are now reclassified as "esteemed customers" and a veritable cash cow.

The journey was on time and passing York, I saw the carriages that the restored Flying Scotsman steam locomotive had pulled from King's Cross to York in the morning. The steam locomotive had been taken into the rail museum along with the celebrities who could be seen sipping champagne on the museum balcony. It was noticeable that the Flying Scotsman had been repainted in its British Railways dark green livery to remind us of the days when we had an integrated and comprehensive rail service across Britain. Heady days when train journeys had one price, timetables between routes were properly interlinked and large stations were travel hubs, not shopping malls.

Travel times in the days of steam were much the same as now in much of the north of England as I was reminded when travelling from Doncaster to Sheffield at a pace that seldom broke a mile a minute.  According to the Institute for Public Policy Research, spending on publicly-funded infrastructure in the north of England is just £223 per resident per year compared with £5426 in London. Underinvestment over decades has left northern England's rail network with poor average journey times between major cities, inadequate capacity, and ageing rolling stock. And it showed, many of the Northern trains were ancient multiple units that must have been around even before Slade first had a hit with Merry Christmas Everybody.

Arriving at Sheffield I made enquiries about my onward tickets as I had inadvertendly left my railcard at home. The helpful station staff explained that I would have to buy another one, despite it only being a couple of months old. It would cost £30 but that would be more than saved on the ticket down to Banbury. They explained that National Rail, which issues railcards and ensures a consistent ticketing style, is owned by the rail operators and they do not offer replacements. The operators obviously have identified lost or forgotten rail cards as a significant source of extra income from the people formerly known as passengers.

The next leg of my journey was mid-morning and operated by Cross Country trains. The train was already fairly full, mainly with groups of women going on trips. Although I had a seat reserved, the ticket collector explained that they had not put out the seating reservation cards so I would have to find an empty seat. A large group of Yorkshire women from Leeds were already opening their third bottle of bubbly; I asked them what the occasion was and they told me it was Saturday. I cleared my seat of empty cans, and sandwich cartons and tried to enjoy the scenery down to Derby and then Birmingham. My small suitcase did not fit on the narrow luggage rack and when a man took the seat next to me at Derby I had to tuck the case between my legs and the seat in front. Never have I arrived at Birmingham New Street with such glee, the man got off and I could stretch my numbed legs into circulation. The train arrived on time at Banbury where I spent the afternoon with the family of my recently deceased Uncle as we shared our memories of him over an extended lunch in a typical Oxfordshire village pub.

The final leg was the perfect journey £3.95 for the 75-mile trip from Banbury to London with Chiltern Railways. Brand new carriages with comfortable seats, picture windows, uncrowded a fast journey, clean and on time. Apart from the last 400 yards when we had to wait 10 minutes for a platform to become available at Marylebone.

So what conclusions can I draw from this non-scientific but nevertheless 'mystery passenger' account of our railways? Well, the pricing structures are bizarre, the speed and price of travel are significantly better in the south where the quality of rolling stock is infinitely better. We can all be nostalgic for steam locomotives but the biggest difference from those halcyon days of steam is not the motive power but the absence of fair and consistent pricing, the lack of uniform investment across the rail network and significant variation in the age and condition of rolling stock across the regions with the south-east, in particular, having benefited. 

Franchising has provided us with railways that are every much as unequal as income distribution and house prices in what was once the United Kingdom. John Major's rail privatisation has had twenty years to settle down and we are frequently told of the vast increase in passenger numbers but that is mainly in the southeast where the investment has been focused. And it has come at some price to the notion of a nation with an equitable distribution of resources. We are not all in this together, we live in a two-speed Britain and the government intends to amplify this even further with HS2 and Crossrail. And as for the benefits of competition, well try getting from Scotland to England without filling Richard Branson's coffers now that Virgin Trains monopolise the west and east coast routes to Scotland.

The evidence below is only one example of train journeys in Britain but it reflects so many others that I have made in recent years.

Operator   Virgin Trains         Cross Country    Chiltern 
From          Edinburgh             Sheffield             Banbury       
To              Sheffield                Banbury              London
Distance    251miles                113miles             75miles
Time          3hrs 38mins           1hr 53mins         56minutes
Cost           £107                      £20                     £4
Cost/mile   42.6p                     17.7p                  5.3p
Av Speed   69mph                   60mph                80mph
               

 

Rob Roy Way: Killin to Acharn

Dochert Falls, Killin

Tuesday, 23 February 2016

Ascent:          780 metres
Distance:       27 kilometres
Time:             6 hours 7 minutres

Creag Gharbh    637m     2hrs 13mins
Ardeonaig                        3hrs 38mins
Ardtalnaig                        4hrs 42mins
Acharn                             6hrs   7mins

After the coldest night of the year, there was the promise of a dry sunny day although further north there would be clouds and strong winds. I had hoped to climb some Corbetts but the ones that I have left to climb are all in the north-west. I did not relish the prospect of a long drive and missing the rare chance of a decent day so decided to make some more progress on the Rob Roy Way. We had started three years ago on a north-to-south walk but the next stage from Aberfeldy to Acharn was difficult to arrange as the public transport did not fit unless we left home at 6:30am to catch the school bus from Killin to Aberfeldy. So it had been put on indefinite hold. 

I decided that I should do the third section from Acharn to Killin on my own, it includes a long road section and the highest climb of the route, which would also allow me to climb an adjacent Graham. The transport was still awkward so I reversed the route so that I could start from Killin and hope to catch the school bus back from Acharn to Killin. This would also allow me to do the climbing first and leave the 15 kilometres along the road for the afternoon.

I parked in Killin just after 9:30 a.m. and began the walk by crossing the bridge over the River Dochart. It was still below freezing and the falls were sparkling in the morning sun. The first couple of kilometres on leaving Killin were along the single-track road to Ardeonaig and I was pleased to see that it had been resurfaced, although the timber lorries were making short work of wrecking the road edges again. At the bridge where the Achmore Burn descends to Loch Tay, there is a forestry road that climbs steeply for 4 kilometres to the Lochan Breaclaich reservoir. There were quite a few forestry operations in progress and the views over to the Ben Lawers range were restricted by the plantations. There is a gate at the end of the forest and a radio mast before the final calming winding section of the road to the reservoir. I followed a path to the south end of the dam so that I could walk across it before climbing the rough track that runs alongside the reservoir before climbing under Creag Gharbh.

Creag Gharbh is not on the Rob Roy Way but a Graham nevertheless so deserved a visit. I left the track where it veers sharply to the right and began to climb through deep soft snow. Despite the cold, I was soon sweating and found a sheepfold beneath the summit to put on some gaiters and take a drink. The final climb was hard work, each step was a thigh-deep plunge into the snow until I reached the summit ridge. The prominent cairn is a splendid viewpoint and I spent 10 minutes enjoying the views and taking photos. Unfortunately, the early morning sun had given way to a layer of cloud but visibility was still very good. I had intended to return to the track, which would have given me an easy route down to Ardeonaig but the long ridge to the northeast was too tempting. The descent was a tough workout through deep snow, peat hags and rough ground before I was able to cut under Stuc Mhor and reach the track down to Brae farm and from there the road down to Ardeonaig.

This was part of Ardeonaig that was new territory for me, I passed the large Outdoor Centre with its magnificent stand of trees and through farmland where sheep, goats and cattle were grazing before arriving at the Ardeonaig hotel on the Lake road. Although It was 1:20pm I decided to push on the long 14-kilometre walk along the single-track road to Acharn. The cloud cover had pushed in from the north and it seemed cooler than it had been on the tops in the morning. There was little traffic but nowhere to stop and enjoy the views and have some lunch. I kept walking until just before the next settlement of Ardtalnaig; I found a bridge with a dry stone parapet where I emptied my rucksack of food and drink.

Ardtalnaig does not have many houses but a major waterworks pipeline project was in progress. I walked through at pace and began the last leg of the walk to Acharn. It was almost 3pm and I had no time to waste if I was to catch the one bus of the day from Acharn at 4:05pm. There were several expensive modern houses under construction near Kepranich, all taking advantage of the spectacular views down Loch Tay and across to the Ben Lawers range of mountains. The sun had also reappeared and the afternoon had a springtime feel about it. The catkins were providing a hint of fluorescent green on the willow trees, which had colonised the badly broken stone walls that lined the road. Several people were gardening and the traffic increased as the construction workers finished their day and the school car runs began.

I ran much of the last couple of kilometres to be sure of catching the bus but I made it in good time, although the bus was early as it disgorged the local children and began its journey back to Killin. The bus is primarily for the pupils attending Aberfeldy Academy and I was the only non-school passenger. The journey to Killin allowed me to observe my route for the day from the opposite side of the Loch and realise that whilst it may have been relatively flat walk 27 kilometres are still quite a distance.

Ben Lawers range

Tarmachan ridge across Loch Tay

The long winding road to Creag Gharbh

Across Lochan Breaclaich to Creag Gharbh and Meall Odhar

Lochan Breaclaich looking west

Ben Vorlich and Stuc a' Chroin from Creag Gharbh

Looking northeast to Loch Tay

Stobbinnein and Ben More from Creag Gharbh

Loch Tay looking east from the summit of Creag Gharbh

Killin and the Glen Lochay Mountains

The road between Ardeonaig and Ardtalnaig

Heading towards Acharn

Loch Tay and Lawers range still in the cloud

The clouds lift

Fearnan across Loch Tay with Glen Lyon hills in snow

Acharn

Beinn Bhan, Gairlochy

Summit of Beinn Bhan from the Coire Mhuilinn ridge

Inverskilavulin House and the slopes to the ridge

Looking northeast from the south cairn of the Coire Mhuilinn ridge

Towards the summit

The last leg to the summit

Job done

Our fellow walker's car

Wednesday, 10 February 2016
Ascent:       810 metres
Distance:    9 kilometres
Time:         3 hours 47 minutes

Beinn Bhan - western top    771m          1hr   50mins
Beinn Bhan summit             796m          2hrs  26mins

We had expected a cloudy wet day after the downpour of last night but there were signs of a blue sky, it felt as if the rains may hold off in the morning. Our choice of hills was either a return to Glen Roy to climb the remaining two Corbetts at opposite sides of the glen or to drive across to Gairlochy and climb the isolated Beinn Bhan from Glen Loy. We chose the latter, it would be a shorter day and the steep climbs of the two hills in Glen Roy might be quicker on a summer's day in lightweight gear.

We passed through Gairlochy with its collection of new kit houses and started from Inverskilavulin House. We had parked at the foot of a forestry track to Stob a' Ghrianain, a splendid-looking Graham, that is opposite the bridge that crosses the river Loy. Inverskilavulin house has been renovated and a couple of holiday chalets have been built in the grounds. They are fenced in which requires the walker to turn left just before the entrance to the house and follow a muddy path around the property. It sets you at the start of the unforgiving slopes to Coire Mhuilinn. It is a 680-metre climb up the steep grass-covered slopes with no respite. The faint path reminds you that others have managed it this far.

The snow level was down to about 600 metres but it is only when you reach 750 metres that the gradient decreases. Once on the curving and graceful ridge, we were in our element. The snow held up most of the time and the 2-kilometre ridge around Coire Mhuilinn to the trig point and summit at 796 metres is a perfect high-level winter walk with a total ascent of only 65 metres as you follow the beautiful cast iron fence posts to the summit. The cornice to the north of the ridge was quite impressive and we kept our distance from its edge. Even with lots of stops for photos, it is little more than half an hour along the ridge.

There was a sharp cold breeze at the summit so we took in the views before beginning our descent to the south. The Grey Corries looked ominous below the grey cloud in the east, Gulvain occasionally slipped its mantle of cloud in the west and Loch Arkaig and Loch Lochy were glints of blue radiating from Beinn Bhan. We dropped down to about 550 metres just below the snow line and found some rocks to provide seating for some lunch, a cheese and tomato roll, orange and a coffee.

As we set off again we fell in step with the lone walker who had set off five minutes behind us and was following the same route. He was a web developer who lived in Skye and was taking a few days to tackle the more remote Munros and Corbetts from his home. We had one of those half-hour conversations that reassure you that the younger generation of walkers have sound values. I was pleased to discover that creative thoughtful people are taking advantage of the internet to locate their business in a place that satisfies their love of the great outdoors. He was the proud owner of a Citroen 2CV and this fitted his lifestyle perfectly.

We had some trouble finding our way around the fences that surround Inverskilavulin house at the foot of the hill. They are a deterrent to the right to roam, but we eventually crossed a fence and found an open gateway leading to a ford to cross the burn just before the bridge over the river Loy. It was not yet 2pm and, and as we started the drive home, the rains arrived. I was home by 4:30 p.m. after a thoroughly enjoyable two days of winter hillwalking.

Glen Roy Carn Deargs

Looking up Glen Roy

Along the river Turret, Parallel roads centre

Chimney Stack before Gleann Eachach

KY on the ascent to Carn Dearg (SE)

From Carn Dearg (SE) towards Loch Lochy Munros

KY descending Carn Dearg (SE) towards Carn Dearg (NW)

Carn Dearg (SE) from Carn Dearg (NW)

John descending from Carn Dearg (NW)

View south from Carn Dearg (NW)

Carn Dearg (NW) to Carn Dearg (SE)

Tuesday, 9 February 2016

Ascent:      895 metres
Distance:   16 kilometres
Time:         5 hours 27minutes

Carn Dearg (south east)     768m      2hrs 15mins
Carn Dearg (north west)    815m     3hrs  21mins

It was a bit late in the year for first footing the Scottish hills but this was my first foray into the mountains in 2016. After the successive storms from Frank to Imogen, there was a brief respite and the Met Office forecasts, which are now available for individual mountains, were invaluable in deciding where to go. John was on standby for a two-day walking trip to build our hill fitness and to collect some Corbetts. As soon as we spotted a couple of days with some prospect of reasonable visibility, we made arrangements to travel to Spean Bridge. We decided to tackle the two Corbetts both called Carn Dearg at the head of Glen Roy. Glen Roy is famous for the parallel roads, remnants of the last ice age that provide real physical contour lines in the glen.

We were walking by 10:30 a.m. after a 3-hour drive north. The road in Glen Roy was quite icy and after almost falling on the walk up to Brae Roy Lodge I briefly considered going back to retrieve my crampons from the car. The Lodge at the head of the glen was unoccupied although the nearby cottage had signs of life; a generator was working and the dogs were barking. We crossed the old Turret Bridge, an 18th-century humped-back bridge and remnant of the military highway. We then turned to the west to follow a track alongside the river Turret for a couple of kilometres until it narrowed to a boggy path. The sun was casting glorious shadows on the hillside and the blue skies created that feel-good factor that can make or break any walk. We passed a couple of chimney stacks, all that remained of former cottages.

We stayed on the east bank rather than crossing the footbridge and began to climb up Gleann Eachach aiming for the bealach at 570 metres. The ascent was a tough battle through long grass recently flattened by snow and lacking any path. By the time we reached 400 metres, we turned and headed for the ridge leading to the southeastern Carn Dearg, despite the gradient it was a lot easier than crossing innumerable deeply incised burns that carved into the hillside. By 550 metres we were walking in soft snow but as we reached the more gentle slope of the ridge the snow had hardened in the wind and our speed over the ground increased as we targeted the distant cairn. To the east, we could see the lower slopes of Beinn Teallach and Beinn a' Chaorrain but Creag Meagaidh was lost in the clouds. As we neared the summit a golden eagle glided directly above us, as always it was a mile or so away in less than a minute and before cameras could be retrieved for that closeup.

A biting wind from the north-west had made it progressively colder, we put on another layer at the summit where we had some lunch and goggled at the snow-covered peaks in all directions. The cloud level was down to about 1000 metres so we were denied views of the higher summits such as the Grey Corries and Ben Nevis. The descent to the bealach between the two hills was a leisurely slither through the mainly soft snow. The ascent to the NW Carn Dearg was slightly steeper but with good footing and sheltered from the cold wind it gave us time to enjoy the white mountainscapes although dark clouds were beginning to come in from the northwest. The summit was a small cairn in the middle of a snowfield where we finished the coffee before beginning the long walkout.

On days like this, there is a jauntiness about your step as you begin the descent down the snowfields, finding sections that hold the boot and then on the lower slopes twisting and turning through the long grass on the descent towards Gleann Eachach. We made good time to the footbridge beyond which is an easy final 5 kilometres back along the path and track to the Lodge. With just a couple of kilometres to go, the rain arrived and became progressively heavier as we wound our way back to the car. All the light of the day had dimmed and Brae Roy Lodge had a desolate appearance. Another walker arrived at the head of the glen but showed no intention of getting out of his car to walk.

We stripped off our boots and waterproofs and headed back down the long winding road to Roy Bridge where we booked into the bunkhouse. It was my fifth visit and it has not improved since the first visit in 1991, nor is there a shop in the village any longer but the hotel has reasonable food and the Wifi code is given free when you buy a drink. The bar was busy with a remarkable number of men with a beer and a laptop, it certainly augmented the silence.