KYQ4: Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe

Luinne Bheinn from wild campsite above Mam Barrisdale

Thursday, 21 April 2016

Ascent: 1644 metres,

Descent: 2210 metres

Distance: 19 kilometres

Time: 10 hours 41minutes

Luinne Bheinn 939 m 1hr 58mins

Meall Buidhe 946m 4hrs 37mins

Beinn Bhuidhe 855m 7hrs 42mins

Day two of the Knoydart adventure began with a spectacular view of Luinne Bheinn as I unzipped the tent door. Blue sky, coolish but not too windy. John was making a brew, we had agreed to start after 9am given the late finish yesterday. We had pasta for breakfast, it had been too dark and too cold to cook it last night. By the time we set off the clouds were drifting in and I expected rain later in the day. After dropping down and crossing the path at Mam Barrisdale we followed a path to the west of the mountain. It climbed less steeply than the route up and over Bachd Mhic an Tosach, which I had used on previous visits, and took us south west of the mountain from where we had a very steep climb up grass and rock slopes to the summit ridge. On reflection it was a mistake. We continued to the summit at the trig point where we stopped for some food and drink. Meall Buidhe was in cloud but by the time we started walking again things were beginning to clear.

There is a good path leaving to the south east that twists down the ridge and then turns south west before reaching the bealach at 693 metres. We met an Irish walker coming the other way and spent ten minutes in animated conversation. He was doing our round in reverse but without the corbetts. We were envious of his minimalist gear although when we heard the story of his tarp the following day we relented on envy and gave him a hard time. We continued across the rough but enjoyable ridge that traverses two more tops before the final bealach at 712 metres. Then there is a 230 metre climb to the south east top of Meall Buidhe. We arrived at the summit as the sun became ascendant and spent half an hour on the summit. It was warm, still and the visibility was excellent.

We returned to the top and found a reasonable footpath which dropped us down to the ridge above Mam Meadail. The last 250 metres of descent was a free route between the crags, steep but not that difficult over the dry ground. We reached the bealach and immediately began the climb up to Meall Bhasiter, the first top on the 8 kilometre long ridge. We were privileged to have the views of Loch Nevis to our left and the Knoydart munros of the last 24 hours to our right. The walk was undulating but always of interest. The climb to the 802 metre top just east of Beinn Buidhe had a couple of exposed steep climbs but by this time we were beginning to have concerns about getting back to Inverie before last orders for food and simply charged up the scrambles. We continued to the end of the ridge at Sgurr Coire nan Gobhar and descended the ridge to the south west as advised in a couple of guide books. We then negotiated a route down the Coire above Loch Bhraomisaig until we reached the boggy ground that circles the loch.

And this is where it became tricky, trying to find a route down to the Inverie river, 330 metres below, was an exercise in trial and error. We eventually decided to cross the Allt Dubh and dodged down the hillside where crags and bogs competed for bragging rights. On the lower slopes fences had been erected to safeguard the hillside from deer. Young birch saplings and primula were thriving but it made travel even slower. I headed for the Kilchoan estate and after another four or five fences we crossed the river on a newish wooden bridge and then made our way across a boggy field to the campsite on long beach.

I pitched my tent in double quick time and left John to finish erecting and sorting his tent whilst I raced along to the Old Forge pub to order food, I arrived with two minutes to spare and had finished my first pint before John arrived. The Swiss and Scottish acquaintances of yesterday were well into their food and drink. They seemed surprised that we had made it and others were equally amazed that we had got round Knoydart in two days although they were sunny and dry. It was after 11pm before we began the one mile trek back to the tents. The reward was a level camp site, dry ground and a balmy moonlit night with the stars twinkling in the clear night sky. Sleep was guaranteed after two long days completing a Knoydart round. Sgurr Coire Choinnichean in the morning seemed like a bonus hill.