KYQ4: Glas Bheinn, Kinlochleven

Glas Bheinn beyond Loch Eilde Mor

Wednesday, 25 May 2016

Ascent: 1078 metres

Distance: 19 kilometres

Time: 5 hours 40 minutes

c Glas Bheinn 792m 3hrs 26mins

It was shortly after midday by the time we had driven up to Kinlochleven from Loch Eil after our 3 hour morning walk on Meall a' Phubuill. We had stopped for a pot of tea to revive us at Morrisons in Fort William and then enjoyed the splendid drive along the north side of Loch Leven. It is years since I have been along this road. The Ballachulish bridge had isolated Kinlochleven, although in recent years it has seen a revival with the Ice Factor climbing facility acting as a magnet for folk with axes to wield.

The start of our walk was not auspicious, the signs and the numerous paths that leave the car park are confusing and our first sortie ended up in a nearby Kinlochmore housing scheme. We were directed back to the path that climbs to the track leading up to Loch Eilde Mor but such was the complexity of paths that we crossed the required path and ended on the more circuitous path that eventually arrives at the unmetalled road that heads to the loch. This was not before performing a series of dips, bends and climbs that probably lost us another twenty minutes. The consolation was the warm afternoon sun and strong cooling breeze, a perfect combination for walking. There was excellent visibility towards Na Gruagaichean and Sgurr Eilde Beag both providing enticing views of the Mamores. Just before you reach the loch there is a path dropping down to the western end of Loch Eilde Mor. A notice stated that the path was closed and three diggers were making a new road to the outlet of the loch.

Under the freedom to roam we ignored the notice and crossed the muddy road under construction and thereafter the flat boggy land at the foot of the loch to reach the outlet dam. From here a narrow path follows the south shore of the loch and eventually begins to climb between two hills. It continues towards the Blackwater reservoir. At its high point on Meall na Cruaidhe, a path veers off towards Glas Bheinn. We had been observing the hill on the approach and it had no discernible qualities. The climb was over heathers but on the ridge, these had dried to give good footing. The walk was taking a lot longer than we had expected and it was 3:30pm before we reached the well-built cairn.

This was an isolated hill and I was staggered to see two walkers approaching from the east shortly after we arrived. I told them we were here first and to bugger off. They had walked in from the station at Corrour and were shattered, we engaged in some friendly banter before they continued their traverse over the hill to Kinlochleven. We spent twenty minutes or so admiring the views of the Mamores, the Grey Corries, the Easains and over the Blackwater reservoir to Buchaille Etive Mor and the Glencoe hills. This is a wonderful summit to watch hills from.

Our descent was at a decent lick of pace, we overtook the other walkers in the first mile and only stopped on the descent to talk to some of the construction workers when we crossed their new road. The road was to give access to raise the level of the loch to provide a more reliable source of water and to construct a new pipeline for a hydro scheme. A £13.6m hydro scheme had been started by Green Highland Renewables of Perth, one of many such schemes that have been commissioned in recent years. There are few glens that I have visited this year that are not being exploited for such hydro schemes. The massive dams constructed in the 1950s are no longer in vogue, it is the pipeline that is king. Whilst these are buried, there is no way to eradicate the impact of the access roads that are encroaching on the hillsides. The right for roads is certainly a bit of an antidote to the right to roam.

Descending to Kinlochewe allowed us to enjoy the sheer beauty of Loch Leven. As well as the distinctive Pap of Glencoe, the two corbetts on either side of the loch, Sgorr Dhearg and Mam na Gualainn provide peaky macpeaks at either side of the loch. We arrived at the car by 6pm, we exchanged the joy of the day with two women walkers from another car and then watched seven young people begin an evening walk. They were all on their phones. For the fifth time this year, I drove back through Glencoe on a perfect evening and there was no traffic other than a dozen heavily laden cyclists enjoying the solitude of Rannoch Moor. What a privilege, the scenery I mean.