KYQ4: Beinn Odhar Beag, Beinn Mhic Cedidh

Beinn Odhar Mhor and Bheag from Beinn Mhic Cedidh

Tuesday 24 May 2016

Ascent: 1303 metres

Distance: 13 kilometres

Time: 5 hours 49 minutes

Beinn Odhar Mhor 870m 1hr 54mins

c Beinn Odhar Bheag 882m 2hrs 33mins

c Beinn Mhic Crdidh 783m 3hrs 45mins

The ascent of the two Corbetts to the west of Loch Shiel at Glenfinnan offer steep slopes and sublime scenery to the walker. The starting point is on the A830 beyond Glenfinnan at the high point where a gate leads across the West Highland railway line from a parking space for half a dozen cars. It was 11:30am by the time John and I started the walk and, as we began climbing, I heard the familiar barking rhythm of a Stanier Black 5 locomotive panting up the glen. I waited for the chance to capture the train as it appeared round the bend, a happy reprise of all those times I had watched and heard this locomotive as a ten and eleven years old trainspotter. Then they were the most common locomotive on the BR network, now they are the workhorse of preserved steam locomotive collections.

Having wasted time on a bit of steam locomotive nostalgia, we continued to climb the fierce slopes that are interspersed with several rock bands that needed careful threading. I took the wrong line at one point and had to spend ten minutes extricating myself from exposed and slippery rocks. Once on the ridge, the gradient slackened and we entered the delightful corrie. Numerous erratics of quartzite were randomly perched on the exposed bedrock of schist. Several burns ran down dispensing a sweet cool refreshment. We were once again blessed with a bright day with a breeze to take the heat out of the climb.

At the summit of the confusingly named Beinn Odhar Mhor, there were three walkers and a dog sitting having their lunch. They were not very welcoming, which is unusual but understandable given the remoteness and intensity of the ascent. We barely broke step and continued over to the twin peak of the slightly higher Beinn Odhar Beag, it looks smaller from Glenfinnan, hence the name inversion. It is a delightful romp across a broad bealach that overlooks a vertical drop to Loch Shiel before the final climb to the summit. On a warm afternoon, we could sit and enjoy the views as we ate some lunch.

It is a long descent of 400 metres to the bealach leading towards Beinn Mhic Cedidh and an energy-sapping 300-metre climb to the summit. Views from here were equally good but a slight haze hung over the views to Rum and Skye. The route down is by a ridge to the north that is narrow and interesting but eventually, there is a need to veer to the east for the final 350 metres of descent into the broad glen. There is a metal footbridge and then a boggy path that leads down to the Mallaig railway line. After tunnelling below a narrow bridge under the line, there is another kilometre before reaching some stepping stones over the river.

Finally, it is a ten-minute walk along the road to the car park at the high point of the road. A young walker was preparing to begin an ascent of Beinn Odhar Mhor and he turned out to be the fireman from the steam locomotive. He had seen us on the hill starting our climb as the train passed us and wanted to climb it on a perfect spring evening. He advised us to eat at the Prince's House Hotel and then shared his good news. He had just secured a job firing the Flying Scotsman, which was to be maintained and run by the company he worked for before being handed over to York Railway Museum in two years time. What a job. We ate at the Prince's House Hotel before driving the 12 kilometres to Fassfern from where we walked up Gleann Suileag to camp below tomorrow's Corbett, Meall a' Phubuill.