 |
| West Highlander at Fort William |
We had vouchers from Gregor for the steam-hauled train to Mallaig and finally, after several attempts, managed to get a reservation on an afternoon trip. The train was full, the happy band of men on the footplate were enjoying themselves and the Black Five locomotive was steamed up and raring to go. There had been 842 of these locomotives built to the design of Sir William A. Stanier for the London, Midland and Scottish Railway (LMS) between 1934 and 1951. They were the most numerous of all locomotives in the UK and the workhorse for both passenger and freight duties. Their design heavily influenced the BR-commissioned standard locomotives after nationalisation.
Leaving Fort William and passing through Corpach the locomotive was barely audible. However, as we began to climb the familiar beat of the pistons reverberated in the glen and the coaches clapped along. Sticking my head out of the window brought the smell of coal and particles of soot lodged in my hair. At Glenfinnan, there were crowds of spectators on the hillside as we crossed the famous concrete viaduct, Harry Potter has a lot to answer for. The train halted at the station so we could visit the museum, see the workings of the signal box and admire the locomotive. The driver and fireman were in animated conversation with the engineer. The steep incline up the glen to Cross had the locomotive rasping for breath. The spectacular scenery gave evidence of the immense difficulty of constructing the West Highland line through some of the most complex rocky landscapes. The seascapes and tunnels beyond merely confirmed this. The beaches of Arisaig and Morar made us wish that you didn't have to return on the same day but tourism schedules seldom cater for spontaneity.
The only blight on the trip was the attempt by the company to sell cheap Chinese-produced souvenirs in the style of Ryanair stewards. The train was filled with tourists from most parts of Europe with the inevitable groups of Americans making more noise and taking up more space than the average traveller. Souvenirs of local produce would be so much more in keeping with the trip but the temptation to obtain high markups on tacky plastic goods always seems to win. Some smoked mackerel or slate coasters with an etching of the locomotive would have tempted me.
Mallaig is the end of the line and the port for ferry services to the small isles of Rum, Canna and Eigg and the Isle of Skye as well as to Inverie in the Knoydart peninsula. Apart from fresh fish and chips, there isn't a lot to see or do in a couple of hours before the journey back. Fortunately, we shared a table with a young Dutch couple on a three-week holiday to Scotland. The conversation was non-stop as we exchanged ideas and information on the return. We arrived back slightly ahead of schedule and were able to make the Corran ferry before the last sailing and get to our Airbnb in Lochaline.
No comments:
Post a Comment
thanks