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| Loch Hourn from Ladhar Bheinn |
A long weekend round of Knoydart Munros
Ascent: 7410 metres
Distance: 80 kilometres
Time: 35 hours 29 minutes
This is written more than 25 years after the walk. I recently obtained some scanned photos of the outing. Re-reading my logbook with the photos confirmed what I have always thought, this was one of the very best long walks. It was one of the vital adventures in compleating the first round of Munros. The walk was with Keith Adams, a hill running partner, and John with whom I climbed 214 of the then 277 Munros.
John and I were nearing the compleation of the Munros and we planned our May walking week with an optimism that had become bolder each year as we banished any thought of failure. We aimed to climb the 11 Munros in Knoydart and then drive to Skye and climb our remaining 11 Munros before taking in the Aonach Eagach ridge on the way home. Keith Adams would join us for most of the trip and Alan would come later in the week whilst we were on Skye. John drove up from Selkirk on Friday afternoon and I left work early and collected him and my already packed gear from home We planned to drive up to Tomdoun in Glen Garry and try and stay at the bunkhouse for the first night. We left at 3:30pm and gave a lift to a lumberjack who was returning home to Fort William after a week's work at Strathyre. He regaled us with stories about the life of a freelance forestry worker since the Forestry Commission had outsourced these operations. It typified all the disadvantages that outsourcing has brought for workers: long hours, difficult conditions, away from home living in a caravan, few employment benefits and low pay.
We reached the Tomdoun Hotel at 6:30pm and booked into the bunkhouse. We decided to take a flyer to the week's walking immediately and to climb Gleouraich and Spidean Mialach before nightfall. It would save us having to climb them at the end of the Knoydart round. We would be able to cook something late on, it was unlikely we would get any food in the hotel, it was a fisherman's bar and drinking was the main pursuit.
Friday 21 May 1993
Ascent: 1160 metres
Distance: 11 kilometres
Time: 3hrs 28mins
Gleouraich 1035m 1hr 14mins
Craig Coire na Fiar Bhealaich 1006m 1hr 35mins
Spidean Mialach 996m 2hrs 14mins
We dumped some stuff in the bunkhouse to safeguard our bunks and drove 9 miles up the road to park alongside Loch Quoich at the start of the good stalker's path to Gleouraich. It was 7pm before we started walking in overcast and cool conditions with the cloud level down to 500 metres. The path zig-zags its way up the steep south ridge to 840 metres and then drops to a col before it steepens again leading to the impressive west ridge to the cairn. It is a speedy route and we pushed ourselves hard to the summit in less than an hour and a quarter.
We disturbed the odd ptarmigan as we crossed to Creag Coire na Fiar Bhealaich, the east top of Gleouraich. There is a 250-metre drop to the bealach and a similar climb to the western top of Spidean Mialach. We had to negotiate a false top and a compass bearing was needed to regain the ridgeline and work our way out to the summit. Time was tight, it was 9:30pm and there was poor visibility in the clouds so we wasted no time, took another bearing and started the steep and jarring descent to the southwest.
As we emerged from the cloud we were north of Loch Fearna so tacked west over some moraines to eventually reach the boggy path. It was a muddy tramp back in fading light but the path takes a direct route back to the road, emerging a few hundred metres east of where we had parked the car. We made it back to the bothy just before 11pm and had some soup before turning in. The walk had been a tasty aperitif for the days ahead.
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| Spidean Mialach and Gleouraich from the South Cluanie Ridge |
Ascent: 2620 metres
Distance: 28 kilometres
Time: 12 hours 45 minutes
m Gairich 919m 2hrs 27mins
c Sgurr an Fhuarain 901m 4hrs 57mins
m Sgurr Mor 1003m 6hrs 3mins
m Sgurr nan Coireachan 953m 8hrs 36mins
t Garbh Chioch Bheag 968m
m Garbh Chioch Mor 1013m 10hrs 10mins
m Sgurr na Ciche 1040m 10hrs 58mins
We awoke to blue skies and tremendous views of Knoydart from Tomdoun. We had arranged to meet Keith by the dam at 9am and as we drove out of the bunkhouse Keith was driving up the road. We parked by the dam and I suggested that I should drive my car to the foot of Sgurr a' Mhaoraich 4 miles up Loch Quoich. This would allow John and I to make a clockwise circuit around the remaining 9 Knoydart Munros and finish on Sgurr a' Mhaoraich. Keith followed me along to collect me as he intended to climb some Corbetts in Knoydart and would be returning to the dam. We packed food and equipment for 2 nights camping so it was 10am when we crossed the dam and began the big adventure. There was now some cloud cover but the mountains were still visible in all their enticing glory.
Gairich is an interminable climb with a very boggy path for the first couple of kilometres until Bealach na Faire, the start of the long ridge that climbs westwards to Gairich. This was easier going, even with heavier packs than we normally carried, we were prepared for rain that always seems to be the vanilla weather in Knoydart. The final kilometre is a lot steeper but we were still fresh and made the summit before 12:30pm where we had some lunch and took photos, it was too early in the day to be worried about the time.
We continued over Gairich Beag before dropping into a remote glen at an altitude of 350 metres. From here it was a long slog up to Sgurr an Fhuarain, a Corbett that rises to 901 metres. It is the start of a graceful flowing ridge that after another substantial drop rises to Sgurr Mor. We ate some snow to preserve out water supplies and looked across to Sgurr na Ciche, it seemed a long way and it was already 4pm. It is a real roller coaster from here with two sizeable hills, Sgurr Beag and An Eag to traverse before the climb to Sgurr na n Coireachan, together they add another 600 metres of ascent. We had some food and rehydrated, it was getting later but brighter and we were tiring after walking 12 hours in the last 24 hours.
It is a steep drop down to Bealach Coire nan Gall and an even steeper rocky climb to Garbh Chioch Beag. The evening was still and warm as we walked along the splendid ridge to Garbh Chioch Mhor, we were passed by a golden eagle gliding just metres above the ridge. Ahead we were transfixed by the sugar loaf shaped summit of Sgurr na Ciche. The drop-down from Garbh Chioch Mhor is steep alongside a magnificent stone wall. And then the steep climb to Sgurr na Ciche from the bealach at Feadan na Ciche. We powered up the final climb of the day, I had yearned to climb Sgurr na Ciche ever since I first caught sight of it twenty years ago. It was almost 9pm as we reached the summit, a true peaky Macpeak with superb views in all directions. We now needed to find somewhere to camp for the night, preferably down in the glen with a burn nearby.
We were heading for the footbridge over the river Carnoch so set off south-west down a long ridge to Druim a' Ghoirtein from where we followed a gorge down to the flood plain. It was 10:30pm before we had found a pitch for the tents, it was still light as we turned in after the long day, well pleased with the progress made and well-positioned for another big day.
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| Crossing the dam at Loch Quoich |
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| Lunch on Gairich |
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| Loch Quoich with Sgurr a' Mhaoraich from Gairich |
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| Sgurr an Fhuarain from Gairich Beag |
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| On Sgurr Mor looking towards Sgurr na Ciche |
Sunday 23 May 1993
Ascent: 2240 metres
Distance: 26 kilometres
Time: 13hours 5minutes
t Meall Buidhe -south-east top 942m 2hrs 30mins
m Meall Buidhe 946m 2hrs 42mins
m Luinne Bheinn 939m 4hrs 43mins
t Luinne Bheinn - east top 937m 4hrs 50mins
m Ladhar Bheinn 1020m 8hrs 51mins
t Stob a' Choire Odhair 960m 9hrs 30mins
After a restful night when there had been some rain, we awoke to bright blue skies and a midge free breakfast before packing and starting to walk at 9:00am. It was just 15 minutes to the bridge at Carnoch and then we began the steady climb up the well-used path by the Allt Carnach to Mam Meadail. The glen was full of bird life with cuckoos providing a soundtrack. We passed an Irishman near the bealach who was on his way from Inverie to climb Ben Aden. At the bealach, we bade farewell to Keith who was to climb the Corbett, Beinn Bhuidhe and then head back via Sgurr na h-Aide and Carn Mor two of the remotest Corbetts and then descend to Glen Desarry and over to Glen Kinghorn to return to his car at the dam. It would probably be a longer and harder outing than our remaining four Munros.
John and I struck up the fierce southern slopes of Meall Buidhe, it is one of those mind-numbing slogs but we made good progress by following a series of ramps between the rock outcrops. We dumped our rucksacks at the south-east top and made a quick sortie over to the summit. After a break for some food and water, we began the long and complex walk to Luinne Bheinn. The magnificent metamorphic rock formations of Morar Schists made the walk a pleasure on a warm and sunny day. We made another direct ascent to the summit of Luinne Bheinn up steep grassy ramps from the bealach at Allt a' Choire Odhair. We made a trip across to the nearby top and back before stopping for a leisurely lunch in unusually clement conditions. There had been 14 people on the summit just before we arrived on what is acknowledged as one of the most difficult to reach Munros.
The descent by the steep N.W. ridge to Bachd Mhic an Tosaich brought us to Mam Barrisdale at 450 metres. The climb from here to Stob a' Chearcaill in the late afternoon was the hardest part of the walk, we were beginning to tire and the boggy grass slopes held no interest. We reached the high point of the ridge and there was a large patch of snow. We both stripped down to underpants and took a roll in the snow. It was the perfect way to prepare for the wonderful walk along the roller coaster of a ridge to Ladhar Bheinn. Conditions were superb until just before we reached the summit when the threat of rain probably forced us to curtail our visit. The summit of Ladhar Bheinn is one of the outstanding memories of any Munro round.
Time was now at a premium so we followed the narrow ridge down to Stob Choire Odhair and then descended to Coire Dhorrcail and eventually hit the footpath that meanders down to the braided tidal flats at Barrisdale. We wended our way across the channels and reached the bothy at 8:30pm where we cooked a meal and chatted to other walkers. The others were surprised when we left just before 10:00pm to walk part of the way back to Kinloch Hourn. As darkness approached we found a beautiful pitch for the tent at Caolas Mor under a stand of pine trees. Another spectacular day and Knoydart was virtually completed.
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| Campsite below Sgurr na Ciche |
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| Looking back to Luinne Bheinn |
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| Me heading up to Ladhar Bheinn |
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| John on Ladhar Bheinn |
Ascent: 1400 metres
Distance: 16 kilometres
Time: 6 hours 11 minutes
t Sgurr a' Mhaoraich Beag 948m 4hrs 11mins
m Sgurr a' Mhaoraich 1026m 4hrs 28mins
It was a glorious morning on one of the best campsites with a spectacular view across Loch Hourn to Caolas Mor. I cast covetous glances at the lonely croft across the loch, was it occupied? would it be a good place to live? On a day like today nowhere could be so enticing. We had tentatively arranged to meet Keith at about 1 pm back at the dam so made an early start at 7:15am. It was 8 kilometres along the undulating and twisty path along the shores of Loch Hourn to reach Kinloch Hourn. It includes a couple of small hills that add about 250 metres of ascent. In the early morning light, it was staggeringly beautiful.
When we reached the bend in the road where the Lochbourn River joins the Allt Coire Sgoireadail we stopped for a break. some drink and food. We continued up the road for a kilometre and then followed a Hydro-Electric track that skirted around a hill and began the ascent of the Allt Ban. There was no option other than to hammer up the ferociously steep slopes to Sgurr Mhaoraich Beag from here although we did find an old stalker's path that climbed to 700 metres. It is an easy and pleasant stroll over to Sgurr a' Mhaoraich. There was a strong easterly breeze that meant that despite the bright sunshine it was cool enough for hard walking.
We were on the last leg and had relaxed a bit until we came to a tricky section of the path that was still covered by hard-packed snow between some crags. We had no protection so we inched our way down. Thereafter it was a good descent along the ridge to Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach and then a schuss down the long grassy slopes to Loch Quoich. We drove back to the dam at the head of Loch Quoich and had a shower in the waterfall by the roadside. Keith had not yet arrived so we drove over to the Cluanie Inn to see if Alan had appeared. It was another no show, so we had a drink and drove on to Skye and to pitch the tent in Glen Brittle ready for the Inn Pin tomorrow. Keith arrived later in the evening and the forecast was good.
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| Campsite on Loch Hourn |
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| Loch Hourn with Ladhar Bheinn in background |
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| Sgurr Mhaoraich summit |
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