Thursday 3 October 2024

A grand day out in Edinburgh and the Scottish Parliament.


It was a 7:15am start to catch the train to Edinburgh for a meeting in the Scottish Parliament. It is quite a long time since I last joined the throng of commuters and even longer since I had attended meetings in the Scottish Parliament. I was anxious about being invited to give evidence to the Committee examining local government finance. We had submitted a paper to the Committee that focussed more on the need for a radical reset of the governance of Scotland's public services. Finance was only part of the problem.

The reform of local government in 1996, austerity and the cumulative centralisation of public services by successive Scottish Governments have emasculated Councils. Their ability to tackle local priorities, engage with their communities, tap into local knowledge, develop networks with local businesses and nurture the energy and goodwill of communities had been steadily eroded in the 25 years since the formation of the Scottish Parliament. 

Approval ratings and voter turnout for councils have plummeted and trust in Councils is only slightly better than the Scottish Government, 38% against 32%, according to the Scottish Household Survey. Yet Councils are more likely to deliver appropriate progressive solutions and innovations in their localities than central government which is too remote and less qualified to manage services. Councils are essential players in tackling issues like social care, climate change, poverty, economic growth and generally improving the common weal. Our message is that councils should be seen as friends of the government, not as a miscreant form of local administration.

My colleague and I felt a bit like dinosaurs amidst the younger MSPs and civil servants who gave us time and respect as we peddled the experience and knowledge from our lived experience. We were younger than that then and, maybe, wiser than that now.  If you've a couple of hours to spare you can check the video of the meeting here.

Bill and I sauntered back to Waverley station and had a coffee in the Fruitmarket cafe before his train left for the dark side of Edinburgh, Livingstone. I was free and feeling easy, there was an exhibition of Ibrahim Mahama, songs about roses in the the adjoining warehouse space. I was lured in by the massive photos of the work gangs building railways in what was the Gold Coast Colonial Railway. These were two subjects close to my heart. I had always loved the stupendous engineering of railways, the sight, sound, smell and touch of steam locomotives remain evocative memories of skipping around engine sheds and watching steam locomotives when I was growing up. 

A large picture of a diesel locomotive made for the Gold Coast Railway by English Electric in Preston conjured up fond memories of my teenage years. I became friends with a Ghanaian woman who was the first black person to live on the housing estate where we lived. Her husband was a graduate engineer and he had come to the UK to work for English Electric, now British Aerospace. They had been allocated a council house in the days when companies had agreements with councils for housing key workers. She had an elegance and intelligence that were compelling but none of the other mothers in the neighbourhood would speak to her. I was chastised by neighbours for spending time talking to her, she would stop and talk to me when walking to the shops with her baby. I occasionally babysat for her and learnt not only about Ghana and her philosophy of life but also witnessed her experience of isolation as an immigrant mother to the UK in the 1960s. When I went to university she gave me the best advice of anyone, 'just be yourself and you will do well in life'. 

I love the occasions when you have time and no plan. As I left the exhibition I headed up the steps of Fleshmarket Close, a magic tuntaway (a secret passage) into the innards of Old Edinburgh. I was meandering along the High Street when it occurred to me that I could go and look at some gravel bikes that I had been encouraged to buy following a recent hillwalking event and Edinburgh has lots of bike shops. Even better, I could phone my friend Neil, who's been heavily into cycling since we used to ride to school together on his Dad's tandem. There was no reply so I set off to find the bike cooperative, Neil returned my call twenty minutes later, he had been exercising on his turbo trainer. I was given the bus numbers to catch to his house in Dalry and we could go for a late lunch. 

Princess Street was buzzing with visitors and when the number 4 hurtled past me I chased it to the next bus stop but by the time I had weaved my way through the luggage of the tourists and reached the door of the bus, I was a second too late. The next bus would be in 9 minutes said the electronic notice in the shelter. After 7 minutes the bus disappeared off the screen into Edinburgh's Bermuda Triangle of missing buses, the next one was allegedly 8 minutes away. A constant stream of empty trams sidled past more or less bereft of passengers. Edinburgh trams never go anywhere you want to go and unless you live in Edinburgh the bus pass doesn't work on them despite the whole of Scotland paying for this expensive white elephant. Meanwhile, all the buses are crammed because they have really useful routes and destinations.

Neil suggested we go to the Athletic Arms (the Diggers), his nearest pub for a couple of pints. It is one of those institutions that specialises in real beers, has over 500 whiskies on sale and provides the staples of a good pub - basic food, darts, a snug room, sport on TV and a happy and regular clientele. They also have a £3 ale of the day and today it was 'As You Like It', a hoppy pale ale. We talked about old friends and families, bikes and cycling, sheds and politics. Neil advised me against a gravel bike and before we went to the pub showed me his two oldish mountain bikes, which he thought were more robust than gravel bikes, he also has a couple of road bikes and a tandem in his excellent and sustainable uhut shed. Neil is not convinced about the need for disc brakes, they are just another unnecessary complication like electronic gear changers. Upgrading my mountain bike was his solution. Asking for advice on a new bike is perplexing.  John told me to get an electric bike, most of the friends in his cycling group have now switched to them. My original advice was to buy a gravel bike, which would be a lot lighter and more versatile for road and touring than a road or mountain bike. Three friends and three different solutions!? 

It was after 4pm and time to get back to the station for my train. I ran for a bus and made Haymarket in good time. The man who sat next to me on the train was on his phone and sounded interesting. When he finished I struck up a conversation with him, he was a manager with Forestry Enterprise and we had half an hour chatting about Scottish Forestry. We shared a love of the Caledonian Pine Forst in Glen Affric and the Torridonian Mountains. I learnt why beech and sycamore weren't planted in Scotland and why good timbers like Ash and Larch were no longer planted. Norway Spruce still dominated the market because it was whiter than Scots Pine, which was darker and mainly used in structural stud work. Almost 80% of UK timber was imported mainly from Scandinavian countries. We could not compete with France or the United States for Oak because they grew them on good quality soils, timber in Britain grew less rapidly and in poorer soils. He also explained how they acquired additional low value land to plant trees like birch and rowan to ensure that they hit their performance targets for native species. We could have kept talking all the way to Inverness. 

It had been a grand day out and I received a message from a friend upon arriving home. As well as a thank you for gifting my Tubular Bells album to his grandson there was a compliment about our evidence to the Committee. "Watched your appearance in Parliament. Both you and Bill spoke compellingly. I quite take your point about the persistent centralisation of decision-making and the imposition by one tier of governance upon another."

In full flow
Building the Gold Coast Colonial Railway

Coincidence of childhood memories

Fleshmarket Close

Diggers with pints of As You Like It






Saturday 28 September 2024

Lurg Mhor and Bidein a' Choire Sheasgaich

Sunday, 22 September 2024

Ascent:     1447 metres
Distance;   41 kilometres, Cycling 26 km, Walking 15 km
Time:         8 hours 10 minutes

Lurg Mhor.                                987m.   4hrs  12 mins
Bidein a' Choire Sheasgaich.    945m.   5hrs  31mins

It was the prospect of revisiting these two hills, along with Maoile Lunndaidh and Sgorr Ruadh and the tantalising forecast of superb weather that had prompted me to offer to accompany Anna on her quest to complete the Munros. She hoped to climb them before winter and preferred not to walk alone on these two extremely remote hills. We had a couple of email exchanges and agreed to meet after we had both driven up and climbed different hills on Wednesday. I did not know what to expect following our previous casual encounter on the Glomach Falls path but her enthusiasm and determination to finish climbing the Munros was infectious. I had been similar when finishing my Munro rounds. My passion for the mountains, which had languished since Covid was reignited. 

We had taken a rest day on Saturday after 3 hard but brilliant days in the mountains and checking that Sunday would also be an extension of the Indian Summer. We had a lazy morning, eating, talking, looking at photos, sorting our stuff, drying shoes and boots and checking the bikes. I removed the toe clips from my bike to reduce the probability of any more strapped-in somersaults. We drove to Plockton for an al fresco lunch and meandered around the village, pottered around Lochalsh, walked across the Skye Bridge and did some food shopping for dinner. We arrived back at the house by 6pm and prepared a relatively early dinner. I was told to be up by six for the big day. We managed to get off by 7:20 and we were cycling from Attadale well before 8am.

The weather was cooler and there was a morning breeze but then we hadn't started any of our previous walks before 11am despite being on the doorstep of the mountains. There was already another car parked and a walker wearing a stalker's hat was setting out on his bike. We left about ten minutes later after unloading the bikes and donning appropriate clothing for the cooler conditions. The first couple of kilometres are flat and apart from slowing to watch a large stag hiding in the bracken, we were rolling along fine. 

We caught up with the man in the hat, let's call him George, he was perplexed about which track to take at a junction. I identified the right route by OS maps online after remembering that I had taken the wrong track on this route when climbing Beinn Dronaig three years ago. Anna was unfolding and refolding her paper map that was 20 years old and does not show the more recent paths but hey ho, some people are still fixated by analogue technologies. We found and crossed the metal bridge over the river and began a ferociously steep climb on the other side. George, his real name, had joined us and we all pushed our bikes up the next section. I was pleased that George's hybrid bike was as old but probably not as heavy as mine, we had excuses when superwoman rode off on her lightweight steed. 

George was a geordie with only half a dozen Munros to go including Lurg Mhor. Anna made a breakaway once we reached the rideable section so she could stop ahead to take photos of the two of us as we chatted away in an animated conversation about our common interests. George had done the Bob Graham round in the Lake District, and we both had competed in marathons and similar races 30 years ago. We were called a pair of sweetie wives for blethering whilst riding. When she rode past us again to get another set of photos she asked if her bum looked big on the bike, yes, we both retorted. 

After some longer flatter sections the track ramps up again and the gravel gets bigger and lumpier.  We were all reduced to pushing bikes again to reach the high point of the ride at 340 metres. There are then 3 or 4 kilometres of mainly downhill cruising to the bridge over the Black Water. Our schussing was interrupted by some sensational views of Sheasgaich and Lurg Mhor peeping out of a duvet of white clouds. The glens were green and golden, lit up by shafts of the sunshine that we were also blessed with. The temperature inversion had shrouded Beinn Dronaig in clouds and to the east, a large bank of white clouds completed the canvas. 

We stopped at the Black Water Bridge to admire the deep gorge, more photos and, well, to chat whilst not riding. The final two kilometres were easy cycling past Ben Dronaig Lodge where we saw an eagle circling over Creag Dhubh Mhor. It was already a magical day with the best yet to come as we dumped our bikes in a butterfly configuration and set out on the path leading to Loch Calavie. Sheasgaich and Lurg Mohr had been re-captured by clouds but it was only 10am and there was time for this to be burnt off with the chance of getting above the temperature inversion. 

Shortly after reaching the shore of Loch Calavie, there is a sign for the steep but good path up the grassy slopes to the bealach between the two Munros. We made steady progress as we entered the cloud layer that continued until the bealach, a 380-metre climb. The path between Sheasgaich and Lurg Mhor crosses here and there is a final 260 metres of ascent to Lurg Mhor. We emerged from the cloud and gazed down at our Brocken spectres. Anna was more excited by the temperature inversion and spent the first fifteen minutes at the summit taking photos of the vista of the peaks as the top of the cloud layer descended to reveal a wrap-around horizon of shapely mountains against the hooloovoo blue skyline. It was a photographer's heaven. 

Back in the real world, George ate his lunch and I tidied up the cairn. George was on a mission to get back to Newcastle so it was time for farewells to someone who had been great company. He insisted on taking a photo of us against the parade of mountains emerging from the white cloud. We stayed for a while and had some lunch before beginning the descent to the bealach which was still shrouded in the cloud. The ascent of Bidein a' Choire Sheasgaich was an easy 230 metres of climbing. There was no rush, we had spent 45 minutes on the summit of Lurg Mhor and another half hour on Sheasgaich as we identified the myriad of peaks. Anna had an app that did it for you, she's also fixated on digital technologies apart that is from online maps!? I tried to name them by memory and it prompted some differences that weren't going to be resolved by Anna's map reading.  The main advantage of the app is that you can download the results. There is no cloud for my memory, it is on my hard disc (brain) which is near capacity, and there are no upgrades available yet.

We descended by the southwest ridge to Sail Riabhach facing into the afternoon sun. We occasionally stumbled on a faint path but the direction was obvious along the walk highland route. It was 4 kilometres back to the bikes where we slaked our thirst from a waterfall on the Black Water. There was talk about bathing but it was 5pm and we had a 13-kilometre cycle ride back to Attadale. The cycle to the Black Water Bridge is easy going but there are 3 or 4 kilometres of ascent which involved some pushing before we reached the high point of the track. The descent on the chunky gravel was far too steep for my brakes to hold me and I had no desire to repeat any accidental gymnastics. 

The final few kilometres allowed us to let speed be our friend and we were back at Attadale before 7pm. It had been another wonderful day. In fact, the last five days have given us perfect conditions and visibility.  It was the the longest continuous spell of radiant sun-filled hillwalking days since 1993 when there were 7 consecutive days of sunny conditions as we completed the whole of Knoydart, the Skye Ridge and the Aonach Eagach Ridge on the way home, giving us 25 of the more difficult Munros in the week.

This time as well as the weather and stunning views, it was the more sedate pace and stops to enjoy the moment and the company that made it a special trip. After a year or more of treading water and reflecting on the past, I was inspired to rediscover my free spirit, thinking about the future and the need to get out more. 

We returned to the house elated by what we had achieved in the last few days. Anna now has only 8 Munros to go. She is a force of nature and her iPhone is a digital wand that produces magical photos.

It began to rain as I left for home the next morning after we had cleaned the house. My mood was of huge contentment laced with a melancholy that the jaunt was over. I know from the last thirty years that hillwalking doesn't get any better than what we experienced over the past four or five days,

Sweetie Wives

Yes

Gravel and Gravity

The path up from Loch Calavie

The climb from Loch Calavie, Beinn Dronaig behind

Approaching the summit of Lurg Mhor

Meall Mor, the Lurg Mhor top

Sheasgaich from Lurg Mhor

George having lunch on Lurg Mhor

Cheesecake and the Analogue Princess

Lurg Mhor from Sheasgaich

Sheasgaich summit looking to Torridons


Bike shed

Drink time

The long and lonely pedal out past Bendronaig Lodge

Speed Bonnie Bike

Descent from the high point

Golden Day






Looking to the future

Thursday 26 September 2024

Maoile Lunndaidh

From Maoile Lunndaidh

 Friday, 21 September 2024

Ascent:          1080 metres
Distance:       30 kilometres
Time:             7 hours 11 minutes

t   Carn nam Fiaclan         993m.    3hrs 38mins
m Maoile Lunndaidh      1005m.   3hrs 54mins

After the late finish yesterday we had decided to leave Anna's main objectives, Lurg Mhor and Bidein a' Choire Sheasgaich, for another day thinking we would need an early start for two of the remotest Munros. They would require a 26-kilometre return cycle ride with a couple of intermediate steep climbs reaching 350 metres before descending to 230 metres, dumping the bikes and starting the walk. 

She thought we should go to her other remaining Munro in the area, Maoile Lunndaidh, as it would be easier with just one Munro and a 16-kilometre bike ride to Glenuaig Lodge. The walk traverses some boggy ground before the steep pathless ascent of Maoile Lunndaidh and would be energy-sapping in the September sunshine. I had previously climbed it along with Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr a' Chaorachain which is longer but a sweeter round of Munros that gives an easy climb of Maoile Lunndaidh from the west. I figured that it would be a pretty tough day with both the cycle in and the steep climb but I decided to let it be.

Despite our good intentions, it was once again a late start after we chatted over breakfast and loaded both bikes onto my car taking care not to scratch Anna's much-loved carbon cross-country bike that is about half the weight of my twenty-year-old Trek mountain bike. She has impressive cycling palmares that include Mont Ventoux, several of the classic Alpine and Pyrenean cols and Lands End to John O'Groat. I was worried that I would have difficulty keeping up, I had hardly cycled all year. 

The single-track road to Achnashellach was chock-a-block with oncoming delivery vans so it took about 45 minutes before we were parked and ready to go. I searched for my trail shoes but I had left them back at the house and my sandals were not ideal for the adventure ahead, I was awarded a minus two for stupidity. I suggested Anna carry on and we agreed on a route up the mountain after we dropped our bikes at Glenuaig Lodge. I would return to the house to collect my shoes and serve my penance. It took an hour and a quarter even driving as fast as the roads and traffic permitted. I would lose another ten minutes or so on the bike as there were two seriously steep sections that I would be pushing my bike up.

Despite the beautiful day, I was in the doldrums as I pedalled up the track that was steeper and stonier than I remembered on the three occasions I had approached the hills from this direction. I dumped my bike about a kilometre short of Glenuaig Lodge to avoid pedalling an uphill section on the return. I couldn't see Anna's bike, she had hidden her treasure. I felt that I had let her down on what would be a tricky ascent on a wild remote mountain. I began the tough walk over undulating boggy grass and heather, skipping over three burns and some drumlins before a stiff climb up the pathless rock-strewn hillside. We had agreed on an anticlockwise route, up one broad ridge and down another. 

I had assumed that Anna would be at least an hour and a half ahead, I tried to phone or message but there was no mobile coverage on the flank of the remote hill. I thought about re-routing and going clockwise to meet her on the descent but didn't like the look of the route so made as direct an ascent as possible. After 45 minutes of steady progress, there was a ping "Just got to Munro summit, 15:48". She had taken a longer route up the Allt an Fhuar-thuill Mhor (a narrow glen) to the Munro top, Carn nam Fiaclan. In my usual optimistic way, I replied that I was approaching Carn nam Fiaclan and would be with her in half an hour. I only then realised it was over 3 kilometres and another 170 metres of climbing to reach the summit. I upped my pace and made it in 40 minutes. A purple-clad, possibly angry person was walking around taking photographs. She was quite content at retrieving her supposedly responsible adult. 

I quickly ate some food and we set off down the second ridge at what I now know as the golden hour, after 5pm when the shadows and light are the best friend of creative photographers. By serendipity, we found a good line down the hill roughly along the route shown on the walkhighlands website. We found a boggy track and stone hopped the river to get back to Glenuaig Lodge and reclaimed our bikes for the descent. Despite being a responsible adult I was given a few tips for the descent on the bikes.  "Keep your weight on both pedals whilst off the saddle, go low, look ahead and speed is your friend." We hurtled down the bumpy track, Anna showing me the posture as she overtook me, "Put your weight over the back wheel like this" as her posterior disappeared into the gloom.  The light was fading fast and I was asked to ride past her on several occasions whilst photos were taken against a backdrop of yesterday's hills backlit by Trumpian orange skies.

As I gained confidence, I began to loosen my grip on the brake levers and tried to follow the advice, I overtook my instructor whilst reciting 'Speed is my Friend'. With the light almost gone I hit a large stone and performed a forward somersault on my bike that Simone Biles would have been proud of, possibly because my legs and feet were held in place by toe straps. My landing was a different matter, head first onto the stony track, handlebars crushing my ribcage, and my hand cut and elbow bruised. Stoicism took over, "Yes, I'm fine" I muttered somewhat surprised that Anna had not captured the accident on her phone. 

After a couple of minutes, we were back on the descent. I realised that speed is not necessarily your friend in the dark when you've no headtorch, but that is too long-winded to make a good soundbite. Boris would probably have come up with something like 'go slow in the glow'. It was only a couple of kilometres back to the level crossing and the car park. We were back at the house before 9pm after another sunny, hard and eventful day. It was too late to go out for a meal we had promised ourselves so it was pasta and salad followed by fruit and ice cream washed down with some wine. Tired but happy, we decided to give ourselves a day off tomorrow before a big day out to Lurg Mhor and Sheasgaich on Sunday.

Start of the trail towards Sgurr nan Ceannaichean

Looking back from the trail to the Coire Lair Munros and Fuar Tholl

Glenuaig Lodge and Sgurr nan Ceannaichean

My ascent route to Carn nam Fiaclan

Anna's alternative route to Carn nam Fiaclan

Carn nam Fiaclan summit

Approaching the summit

Real life at summit in Purple against Hooloovoo Blue sky

The descent from Maoile Lunndaidh

Speed is your friend.

Just before the forward somersault






Tuesday 24 September 2024

Sgurr Ruadh

Fuar Tholl from the Path to Coire Lair

Thursday 19 September 2024

Ascent:            1022 metres
Distance:         19 kilometres
Time:               7 hours 24 minutes

Sgorr Ruadh         962m      4hrs 26 mins

It was a late start, we had both walked until the late evening the day before so we spent the morning over a lazy breakfast and getting to know each other before the walk. We eventually started out at 11:30am for the 30-minute drive to Achnashellach. It was another miraculously perfect day as we set out to cross the railway line and begin the walk through the Caledonian pines and gurgling burn that makes Coire Lair one of my favourite walks. I had been warned by Anna that there would be lots of stops for photos. It was a rare pleasure to drift off the path to admire a waterfall or rock formation. We chatted with a couple of mountain bikers who were descending the steep rocky path that had etched its way into the bedrock. We eventually reached the junction where one path leads to Beinn Liath Mhor Ridge, one heads west across the burn to Fuar Tholl and another into Coire Lair. 

Today, we were taking the latter path because only one Munro had to be climbed. It gave us a license to imbibe the scenery and dawdle along enjoying the architecture of nature that enclosed the corrie. It was another 5 kilometres to the lochan at 650 metres which is the start of the Sgorr Ruadh ascent. We stopped for a very late lunch. Two women had been bathing just before we arrived and they came over and chatted for a while. This would never have happened if I had been with male friends. They had decided it was too late to climb Sgorr Ruadh having been up Beinn Liath Mhor. We bade them farewell and headed up the slope and quickly found the path that eased upwards at first before reaching a flatter section. There is a slightly higher ledge in the opposite direction of the summit, a balcony that would enable us to capture the views of Laithach and Beinn Eighe. It is probably my favourite view in Scotland and has served as my blog banner since my last visit on a February day 10 years ago.

It was after 5pm and the golden hour according to Anna. Time for more photos so we dallied on the summit for quite a while absorbing the splendid views. The warm rays of the sun were cancelling out the evening chilling of the air. There are very few days or places on the Scottish hills as good as this. There was a descent of 300 metres to Loch a' Bhealaich Mhoir. The massive face of Fuar Tholl was tempting but the light was fading, our timing had been perfect for photos but would result in us finishing the walk in the dark before arriving back at Achnashellach. We found our way across some burns and boggy ground to eventually join the 3-kilometre path that leads back to the junction of paths at 360 metres.

Crossing the burn to regain the main path was possible by using sticks and the final couple of kilometres was down the rocky path. A headtorch was needed for the final section through the forest and we were down just after 8pm, The walk could have been a fair bit quicker but we had extracted the very best out of the walk with a couple of long stops and lots of time to be inspired by the very best of mountain scenery.
Heading towards Coire Lair and Beinn Liath Mhor 

Waterfall in Coire Lair

Path to Coire Lair

Liathach

I was told to sit down so Liathach Ridge was not spoilt

Summiting on Sgorr Ruadh

The golden hour on Sgorr Ruadh summit

Cairn repairing on Sgorr Ruadh

Fuar Tholl from the descent of Sgorr Ruadh

Fuar Tholl from Sgorr Ruadh

Beinn Liath Mhor from the descent of Sgorr Ruadh