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The red and white flash that appears every 30 metres or so along the entire walk.
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The GR20 is regarded as the best high level walking route in Europe and traverses the granite backbone of Corsica passing through magnificent rock scenery with lots of exposure, extremely rough terrain and tranquil beech and pine forests. It is 194 km long and is usually divided into 15 stages. Vizzavona is the only settlement en route and is used as a way of breaking the walk into two sections of 9 days and 6 days for the north and south respectively. The northern section has the most spectacular mountain landscapes and requires a good head for heights. The southern section has two tough stages and in poor weather provided our most severe difficulties.
I had first encountered the GR20 in 1994 during a family holiday. I had an unforgettable day on Monte Cinto, the highest peak, descending down the screes and diving into Lac du Cintu on a day of searing July heat. In 2000 I climbed Monte Renosa and scrambled in the Bavella pinnacles. I resolved on each of these occasions to return to do the GR20 as an early reward after retirement. I had planned to do it in September 2009 but severe electrical storms meant a postponement until June 2010. The walk was done with Ian Rankin, a flatmate from Glasgow in the 1970's with whom I had spent a number of reckless holidays both skiing and travelling; and John Wilson, my brother in law and companion on many of my Munro bashing days over the past twenty years. As a recently retired GP, he also gave us some reassurance that he could be the unofficial expedition doctor despite his minimalist first aid kit.
The mountains soon soared up in size and ferocity and etched both intimidation and awe onto our growing respect for the adventure ahead. Meanwhile, the fragrances of the maquis - thyme, lavender and myrtle gave way to the juniper bushes and alpine flowers began to invade the paths growing out of the bedrock and decorating the route in a way that Scottish mosses, lichens and heathers never quite manage. After 7 hours in glorious sunshine, including 2 stops, we reached the first camp and found a few rocky ledges to pitch our tents and enjoyed our first brew - six cups of tea from one teabag - the Scots are here. We were able to get a cold shower, some beers and ate a passable meal at the refuge sitting on the balcony under the setting sun. There was a glorious positive mood about the campsite as we mingled with those who were almost complete, having travelled from south to north in near perfect conditions. The adventure was on.
Day 2: To Refuge de Carozzu, 8km, 825m ascent, 1060m descent, 5:30hrs
This day was the climax of the walk. I had proposed that we do two stages including the infamous Cirque de Solitude and the weather was beginning to turn. After crossing a suspension bridge and climbing huge pillows of granite we were faced with the first big snow chute to the Col a Muvrela. Ian who has a holiday house in Corsica met his friend Nico, a Corsican Mountain guide, who was bringing a group of walkers north; he advised Ian to think twice about the Cirque today but Ian kept this advice to himself. After getting lost in the cloud on the old GR20 route over the Punta Culaghia ridge, which was badly signed with the red and white flashes, we had to revert to compasses to refind the route. After a short lunch stop at the old Altore refuge, we scaled the long snow chute to the top of Col Perdu. Glancing into the cauldron of cloud and near vertical descents into the Cirque; we should have heeded Nico's advice had we known it.
The next day we had a late start, Ian had been drying clothes and I carried out emergency repairs to my rucksack so it was 8:30 before we left Castel di Vergio. The first section of the trail took us through more superb forests of Laricio pines and later beech woods as we climbed to the Bocca San Pedru. We were able to admire the northern summits from a new angle. And then a delightful walk across open hillsides with the harsh granite paths replaced by easy gradients, ponies and other grazing animals.
We had a civilised lunch of bread and saucisson by the tranquil Lac du Ninu - Heidi would have been at home here. And then on to Bergeries de Vaccaghja where we had a beer and bought a cheese and watched with amazement as a helicopter brought in food supplies and took out cheeses and the rubbish - making five round trips in twenty minutes each time scattering the paraphernalia that acculumates around the bergeries including hats and half-drunk beers.
It was only a short walk from here to Manganu, a refuge with everything including a mountain stream with pools to bathe in, we enjoyed an idyllic afternoon in the sun. The wind began to blow and someone's tent sailed by pursued by the indefatigable Marie-Pierre trying to help others and tidy up the campsite in the same way she does everything else. Alas by 7pm the rains started and after a meal in the refuge we retreated to our tents and witnessed the daddy of all thunderstorms and a night of crashing rain. It was brutal and I was grateful to be in a bombproof Hilleberg tent. Nevertheless, we emerged the next morning with spirits ignited but with our tents, sleeping bags, and socks, boots and clothing dampened if not soaked.
Day 6: To Petra Piana, 10km, 980m ascent, 740m descent, 5:20hrs
It was weather dependent if he would return to the route that day or get a lift to Vizzavona and meet us the next day. John and I were resolute that we had to focus on the trail and decided to hammer on to Refuge de l'Onda. Although cool, windy and cloudy we kept a good pace and the rains held off. As we arrived at Onda we met the Vienne team who had left Petra Piana early in an attempt to do a double stage. However, the gardien at the Onda refuge had declared the next stage dangerous and they decided to give it a miss and return to Tattone from where they could get a train to Vizzavone. They had completed the southern half of the GR20 the year before and they also wanted to seek out the beaches and dry out.
It was cool but occasional patches of blue sky gave us some optimism for the day although the Bavella Pinnacles had retreated into the cloud layer. We were in no rush and made an 8am start with a steep descent and river crossing before the long traverse around Bavella. Ian was struggling with his leg and I lent him my walking pole which had been a passenger for most of the trip apart from the traverse of a couple of snow chutes on Day 6. I was feeling very strong and tempted to do the high-level route through the pinnacles but the others were less keen. The clouds and the wind, although a lot less than the previous two days, dissuaded me. We were now below 1000 metres and the maquis squeezed the path and legs were permanently scratched in addition to all the minor altercations with the granite over the walk. We arrived at Bavella just before 1pm, moving slowly and Ian in some difficulty even walking on the road.
We found an Auberge and deposited ourselves for a long slow lunch and time to recover for the last section of the walk to Refuge d' I Paliri. It was a series of steep descents and ascents through spectacular scenery before we arrived at the refuge. A splendid site with flat pitches, great views and a small refuge where we could cook our emergency rations on the last night. Dehydrated couscous and curry did not really do it for us and we were a lot more greedy when it came to emptying a large pan of spaghetti offered to us by some French walkers. I had developed a very sore left leg and an uncomfortable layer of hard skin on my right big toe which meant an uncomfortable night. John initially thought the left leg may be shin splints from the length of the walk and the heavy rucksack but subsequently pronounced it was cellulitis (heavy swelling from infection through cuts, grazes etc) which turned out to be the case.
I had first encountered the GR20 in 1994 during a family holiday. I had an unforgettable day on Monte Cinto, the highest peak, descending down the screes and diving into Lac du Cintu on a day of searing July heat. In 2000 I climbed Monte Renosa and scrambled in the Bavella pinnacles. I resolved on each of these occasions to return to do the GR20 as an early reward after retirement. I had planned to do it in September 2009 but severe electrical storms meant a postponement until June 2010. The walk was done with Ian Rankin, a flatmate from Glasgow in the 1970's with whom I had spent a number of reckless holidays both skiing and travelling; and John Wilson, my brother in law and companion on many of my Munro bashing days over the past twenty years. As a recently retired GP, he also gave us some reassurance that he could be the unofficial expedition doctor despite his minimalist first aid kit.
The two most useful guides to the walk were Corsica for hikers which have good maps online and the excellent Cicerone publication by Paddy Dillon which is almost flawless in the detail of the route Cicerone Guide GR20 Corsica . The description that follows is organised by the twelve and a half days that we had planned and, indeed, managed to complete the walk. We were restricted by our flights to 13 days and, on reflection, it would have been preferable to have built-in a couple of extra days to allow for some flexibility particularly given the severe weather experienced on several days. The distances are taken from the guide book with some adjustments when we combined stages. The ascents were recorded by two of us on Suunto altimeters and the average was taken. The timings for each day include shortstops but exclude lunch stops on those few days when we did take a break for lunch.
Day 1: Calenzana to Refuge d' Ortu di u Piobbu, 12km, 1410 m ascent, 210m descent, 5:40hrs
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| Looking north towards Calenzana and the Med |
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| Through the Maquis on the ascent |
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| Start of the rough stuff |
We started on 10 June at Calenzana to do the route north to south. We had travelled to Calenzana the previous evening and enjoyed a three-course evening meal in the village before retiring to the tents. The campsite was full overnight with about 45 walkers but when we left at 7:15am, there was only one couple left at the site: our future Austrian friends. Most GR20 walkers tend to start between 5:00am and 7:00am which seemed a bit masochistic on what is supposed to be a holiday. We stopped in the village for some breakfast and it was after 8am before we hit the start of the walk and began the long ascent into the granite cornucopia that is the GR20. Bob Marley had provided the script... 'The sun is shining, the weather is sweet, make you want to move your dancing feet to the rescue, here I am, want you to know...'
When we reached the first col and lost the sea views behind us we were confronted with five orange-clad noisy French walkers, they were from a running club from Vienne, near Lyons. We would see, hear and enjoy a lot more of these good companions as the route progressed. We had all minimised our equipment with packs in the range of 11kg (John), 14kg (me) to 16kg (Ian). This was a smart move and we found that even starting later than most walkers we were completing stages by early afternoon.
When we reached the first col and lost the sea views behind us we were confronted with five orange-clad noisy French walkers, they were from a running club from Vienne, near Lyons. We would see, hear and enjoy a lot more of these good companions as the route progressed. We had all minimised our equipment with packs in the range of 11kg (John), 14kg (me) to 16kg (Ian). This was a smart move and we found that even starting later than most walkers we were completing stages by early afternoon.
The mountains soon soared up in size and ferocity and etched both intimidation and awe onto our growing respect for the adventure ahead. Meanwhile, the fragrances of the maquis - thyme, lavender and myrtle gave way to the juniper bushes and alpine flowers began to invade the paths growing out of the bedrock and decorating the route in a way that Scottish mosses, lichens and heathers never quite manage. After 7 hours in glorious sunshine, including 2 stops, we reached the first camp and found a few rocky ledges to pitch our tents and enjoyed our first brew - six cups of tea from one teabag - the Scots are here. We were able to get a cold shower, some beers and ate a passable meal at the refuge sitting on the balcony under the setting sun. There was a glorious positive mood about the campsite as we mingled with those who were almost complete, having travelled from south to north in near perfect conditions. The adventure was on.
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| Campsite at Refuge de Carozzu, stony but spacious |
Day 2: To Refuge de Carozzu, 8km, 825m ascent, 1060m descent, 5:30hrs
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| Looking south through the morning mists |
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| Jagged Pinnacles with Paglia Orba prominent to the right |
The next day followed a similar pattern although we started at 6:45am and stopped after an hour to eat some bread and saucisson for breakfast. It was quite misty in the morning and it made for pleasant walking over paths that were less easy than we had expected. We meandered through valleys, over ridges and up pillows of granite as we ascended above 2000 metres and then down again over rougher terrain. We needed all of our 3 litres of water to sustain us in the early heat of summer. We arrived at a crowded and cramped campsite in the early afternoon. The pitches were essentially on the bedrock outside the refuge and even our Thermarest mats were unable to offer much comfort from the uneven granite surface on another hot night.
In the evening we met Kurt and Michaela, a young Austrian couple over a few beers and they became good friends over the days ahead. They were carrying all their food so their rucksacks were 20kg and 15kg which made my 14kg rucksack and John's 11kg sack seem a little less heavy. A lacklustre meal at the refuge was enlivened by a Norwegian walker who had almost completed the GR20 south to north. He told us the highlights, the refuges with good food and showed us photographs taken on his Lumix camera, they were very impressive. He was immaculately dressed and equipped. A sharp contrast to our wet bedraggled appearances two days from our finish but he had walked in the best of the early summer weather. We had an early night to prepare for an early start on the big day tomorrow, we had planned t do a double stage including the cirque du solitude.
In the evening we met Kurt and Michaela, a young Austrian couple over a few beers and they became good friends over the days ahead. They were carrying all their food so their rucksacks were 20kg and 15kg which made my 14kg rucksack and John's 11kg sack seem a little less heavy. A lacklustre meal at the refuge was enlivened by a Norwegian walker who had almost completed the GR20 south to north. He told us the highlights, the refuges with good food and showed us photographs taken on his Lumix camera, they were very impressive. He was immaculately dressed and equipped. A sharp contrast to our wet bedraggled appearances two days from our finish but he had walked in the best of the early summer weather. We had an early night to prepare for an early start on the big day tomorrow, we had planned t do a double stage including the cirque du solitude.
Day 3: To Refuge de Tighjettu through Cirque de la Solitude, 12km, 1720m ascent, 1285m descent, 10:30hrs
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| John on suspension bridge at Spasimata slabs |
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| From Boca a i Stagni looking south |
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| The ascent to Col Perdu |
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| Descending into Cirque de la Solitude from Col Perdu |
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| Climbing out of the Cirque |
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| The exit from the Cirque |
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| Team Vienne and John relax at the lip of the Cirque |
We followed the chains climbing down down the steep pitches until we reached the cloud filled basin at the bottom of the cirque. It was more a Via Ferrata climb and certainly concentrated the mind. My rucksack had lost one of its two retaining screws for the backframe and it was difficult to stop it sliding off my shoulders during the more strenuous gravity-defying moves. At the bottom of the cirque, the cloud reduced the visibility and made it difficult to find the route with snowfields disappearing into the mist. Fortunately, Manu from Vienne found the flashes at the other side of the snowfield and beckoned us across. We gingerly made our way across soft snowfields to rejoin the ascent route. We passed a Mountain Rescue team who had been called to assist a woman who had fallen when the snow collapsed.
Then there was a steep climb out of the pit of the cirque via ladders, chains and over granite dribbling with water from the snowmelt. We climbed alongside with the Vienne team, who had also elected to do the double stage today and had left at the crack of dawn. Half an hour later we emerged at the lip of the cirque as the sun blasted away the cloud. We were able to watch the helicopter lift out the injured climber before collapsing onto the rocks at the lip of the cirque with our French friends. It was a moment of unadulterated magic and we enjoyed the most magnificent scenery in the evening light with the elation that you only get after days like this
Then there was a steep climb out of the pit of the cirque via ladders, chains and over granite dribbling with water from the snowmelt. We climbed alongside with the Vienne team, who had also elected to do the double stage today and had left at the crack of dawn. Half an hour later we emerged at the lip of the cirque as the sun blasted away the cloud. We were able to watch the helicopter lift out the injured climber before collapsing onto the rocks at the lip of the cirque with our French friends. It was a moment of unadulterated magic and we enjoyed the most magnificent scenery in the evening light with the elation that you only get after days like this
We were unable to get any food at the refuge, the gardien (warden) had already sold all the meals, it was 7pm. We were saved when the Vienne team with great generosity invited us to their spaghetti fest - they carried and cooked their own food. We bought the beer. The campsite like most on the GR20 had a spectacular setting but no flat pitches for tents. We were adjusting to sleeping between the outcrops of exfoliating granite. The whole ridge of the GR20 is like a giant cheese grater. My fingers and feet are still exfoliating skin 10 days later and our legs were constantly scratched on the granite and scrub trees.
Day 4: To Castel di Vergio, 17 km, 850m ascent, 1105m descent, 6:15hrs
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| Start of the day |
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| Paglia Orba from the Foggiale Path |
The next morning brought sunshine for the walk down and then up through splendid Pine forests. We continued up the bare rock and an alpine meadow to Refuge de Ciottulu below the most impressive mountain on the ridge - Paglia Orba. We were late starting at 8:45am and as a result, reached the refuge just as the heavens opened at lunchtime. We sheltered for an hour or so and after an omelette we set out to descend to Castel di Vergio in the rain.
I had deposited my camera in the rucksack for the first time on the trip to keep it dry but I missed the chance to capture a black and day-glow yellow salamander as it crossed my path - potentially the photo of the trip. The only consolation as we arrived at Castel di Vergio on a cold afternoon was that the rain finally stopped and we had a level tent pitch on a grass meadow. We cooked a batch of spaghetti for our friends from Vienne and sheltered from the cold evening in a make-do kitchen in a Belgian's bedroom in the refuge.
News from home was that John had become a grandad again - John Jnr- and we celebrated with a couple of bottles of wine bought at the refuge shop, although I was so keen to keep the Vienne team topped up with wine after their generosity of yesterday that I neglected to fill John's glass.
I had deposited my camera in the rucksack for the first time on the trip to keep it dry but I missed the chance to capture a black and day-glow yellow salamander as it crossed my path - potentially the photo of the trip. The only consolation as we arrived at Castel di Vergio on a cold afternoon was that the rain finally stopped and we had a level tent pitch on a grass meadow. We cooked a batch of spaghetti for our friends from Vienne and sheltered from the cold evening in a make-do kitchen in a Belgian's bedroom in the refuge.
News from home was that John had become a grandad again - John Jnr- and we celebrated with a couple of bottles of wine bought at the refuge shop, although I was so keen to keep the Vienne team topped up with wine after their generosity of yesterday that I neglected to fill John's glass.
Day 5: To Manganu, 17km, 670m ascent, 475m descent, 4:45hrs
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| Lac du Ninu - beautiful walking |
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| Helicopter brings beer and takes out cheese and refuse |
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| Pitching tents at Manganu refuge before the deluge |
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| Spaghetti Western landscapes |
The next day we had a late start, Ian had been drying clothes and I carried out emergency repairs to my rucksack so it was 8:30 before we left Castel di Vergio. The first section of the trail took us through more superb forests of Laricio pines and later beech woods as we climbed to the Bocca San Pedru. We were able to admire the northern summits from a new angle. And then a delightful walk across open hillsides with the harsh granite paths replaced by easy gradients, ponies and other grazing animals.
We had a civilised lunch of bread and saucisson by the tranquil Lac du Ninu - Heidi would have been at home here. And then on to Bergeries de Vaccaghja where we had a beer and bought a cheese and watched with amazement as a helicopter brought in food supplies and took out cheeses and the rubbish - making five round trips in twenty minutes each time scattering the paraphernalia that acculumates around the bergeries including hats and half-drunk beers.
It was only a short walk from here to Manganu, a refuge with everything including a mountain stream with pools to bathe in, we enjoyed an idyllic afternoon in the sun. The wind began to blow and someone's tent sailed by pursued by the indefatigable Marie-Pierre trying to help others and tidy up the campsite in the same way she does everything else. Alas by 7pm the rains started and after a meal in the refuge we retreated to our tents and witnessed the daddy of all thunderstorms and a night of crashing rain. It was brutal and I was grateful to be in a bombproof Hilleberg tent. Nevertheless, we emerged the next morning with spirits ignited but with our tents, sleeping bags, and socks, boots and clothing dampened if not soaked.
Day 6: To Petra Piana, 10km, 980m ascent, 740m descent, 5:20hrs
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| Breche du Capitellu, the highest point on the GR20 ridge at 2225 metres |
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| Over the crux |
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| Lac du Renosu from Bocca Renosa |
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John, Kurt, Ian and Michaela at Bocca a' Sogglia
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| Alpine Chough takes food from Michaela |
After a fairly minimal breakfast in the refuge and one of the big days ahead, we hauled on our rucksacks and left at 7:00am. It was a long pull up the granite slabs to Breche de Capitellu, the highest point on the GR20 and we looked over to the deep Lac de Capitellu and Lac du Melo in the corries below. Long steep wet snow slopes fell towards them and we used our single walking poles for the first time to give confidence as we circumnavigated the ridge over numerous snow slopes. After a lot of scrambling, we eventually reached Bocca a Sogglia and stopped as the sun briefly emerged to gaze in awe at the rock architecture.
We were shortly joined by Kurt and Michaela, our Austrian friends and we spent some time eating, talking and, in Michaela's case, feeding the Alpine Choughs. There was a longer stretch round to Bocca Muzzella and then a long steep descent to Refuge de Petra Piana, which we reached just as the rain began to fall. And so it continued for the next 18 hours as minor streams were transformed into raging torrents and even the short walk from tent to refuge involved wading through a couple of feet of cascading water.
We were shortly joined by Kurt and Michaela, our Austrian friends and we spent some time eating, talking and, in Michaela's case, feeding the Alpine Choughs. There was a longer stretch round to Bocca Muzzella and then a long steep descent to Refuge de Petra Piana, which we reached just as the rain began to fall. And so it continued for the next 18 hours as minor streams were transformed into raging torrents and even the short walk from tent to refuge involved wading through a couple of feet of cascading water.
Day 7: To Refuge de l'Onda, 11km, 500m ascent, 930m descent, 3:55hrs
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| Goat herd coming in for milking at Onda |
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| A perfect evening |
We were really under the weather as we started at 8:15 after a night of rain, our rucksacks were full of wet gear. The rain subsided as we made the steep descents and crossed several raging streams. Eventually, we began to dry out as we descended down the valley and through the forested lower valley to Bergeries de Tolla which was closed - we had originally planned to meet Ian's wife who was to have walked up 4km from the road head at Canaglia with a picnic. Kurt and Michaela decided to terminate their walk here and descend to Tattone, they were only one stage short of completing the northern section and felt that they had earned the right to a few days on the beaches to dry out and get some real food. Ian went down to Canaglia to meet Beatrix, his wife, and daughter, who had wisely decided that it was too wet to walk up and meet us on the trail.
It was weather dependent if he would return to the route that day or get a lift to Vizzavona and meet us the next day. John and I were resolute that we had to focus on the trail and decided to hammer on to Refuge de l'Onda. Although cool, windy and cloudy we kept a good pace and the rains held off. As we arrived at Onda we met the Vienne team who had left Petra Piana early in an attempt to do a double stage. However, the gardien at the Onda refuge had declared the next stage dangerous and they decided to give it a miss and return to Tattone from where they could get a train to Vizzavone. They had completed the southern half of the GR20 the year before and they also wanted to seek out the beaches and dry out.
We pitched our sodden tents in blustery conditions before 1pm, the mountains above were shrouded in cloud and we felt melancholic about losing all our newfound companions. Things changed, we managed to dry out all our gear in the wind and had an early afternoon feast in the bergeries of bread and soft goat's cheese. By 4pm, the sun was up and shortly afterwards Ian strolled in with cake and bananas. It was a perfect evening with the goat herd jingling into the bergeries to be milked and later we feasted on the very best of food - Corse soup, a Lasagne made with fresh spinach and goat's cheese, two beautiful goat's cheeses and fresh bread with wine and liqueur - a legendary meal and all for €18. The camp had flat ground and, with sun-dried dry tents and sleeping bags, it meant a good night's rest.
Day 8: To Vizzavone, 11km, 715m ascent, 1190m descent, 5:15hrs
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| Hotel I Laricci at Vizzavona - a good breakpoint and great food at the restaurant |
The clouds were low again as we left the campsite at 8am and we were soon into the mist as we made the stiff climb to Punta Muratello. We made good time, 30% faster than the guide book, and we were impressed by a memorial to a climber and his dog who had died in a ski touring accident in 2000.
The descent was slow on wet slabs and twisting rocky paths although we spent some time talking to one of the few British walkers, who gave us his take on the refuges and sections ahead. As we reached the forested lower slopes the paths widened and the gradient eased. We were within an hour or so of Vizzavone and the day-trippers appeared making for Cascade des Anglais on the beautiful river, L' Agnone Ruisseau. We sauntered into Vizzavone in the early afternoon where Beatrix had booked us into the refuge at Hotel I Laricci. A beer and ham sandwich sweetened our mood. Hot shower, dry the tents and then a perfect 3-course meal in the hotel. We were 60% complete and this place was just what we needed, we shared a dormitory with 2 Germans and congratulated them on their World Cup performances and this was before they crushed England and Argentina.
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| Memorial to Lola the dog |
The descent was slow on wet slabs and twisting rocky paths although we spent some time talking to one of the few British walkers, who gave us his take on the refuges and sections ahead. As we reached the forested lower slopes the paths widened and the gradient eased. We were within an hour or so of Vizzavone and the day-trippers appeared making for Cascade des Anglais on the beautiful river, L' Agnone Ruisseau. We sauntered into Vizzavone in the early afternoon where Beatrix had booked us into the refuge at Hotel I Laricci. A beer and ham sandwich sweetened our mood. Hot shower, dry the tents and then a perfect 3-course meal in the hotel. We were 60% complete and this place was just what we needed, we shared a dormitory with 2 Germans and congratulated them on their World Cup performances and this was before they crushed England and Argentina.
Day 9: To Bergeries D' E Capanelle and Bocca di Verdi, 30km, 1425m ascent, 1135m descent, 8:10hrs
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| Beech Woods on ascent out of Vizzavona |
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| Monte d'Oru |
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| Laricio Pine |
After a welcome break from the routine of the past 8 days, we decided to attempt a double stage. We had breakfast at the hotel and took an age to get going eventually leaving at 7:40am. The two stages were long but had good paths for quite long stretches. The day started bright and the stiff climb out of Vizzavona through pine and beech forests was accomplished at a good pace, our rucksacks no longer seemed such a burden. Juniper bushes lined the path as we emerged from the tree cover and I crushed the berries to release aromas that cancelled out the sweat beads. We were at Bocca Palmento in 1:50 hrs, 33% ahead of the guide book time despite lingering to enjoy the beauty of the beech woods before climbing to the Bocca and marvelling at the profile of Monte D'Ora now behind us. There were long traverses on reasonable paths and we made Bergeries d'E Capanelle for an early lunch. Ian was in one of his expansive moods and we had 3 courses including soup, beef, tarte de pomme and wine for €16 served by a stunningly beautiful waitress whose English, hospitality and efficiency made the meal even more enjoyable. This was the luxury phase of the walk.
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| Crossing the Ruisseau de Cannareccia |
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| Feral Pigs on Plateau de Gialgone |
We started again just before 2pm after a break of almost 2 hours and rattled down some steep rocky paths before crossing the first of the rivers on a road bridge to the ski resort. Then a series of long traverses in the forest with a river crossing every couple of kilometres. There were large numbers of walkers coming the other way including runners. We emerged on the southern flanks of Monte Renosa on the open slopes of Plateau de Gialgone and then crossed a new bridge and completed the last few kilometres to Refuge di Verdi. A campsite below the refuge was in the shade of the forest but there was a shower and the evening meal in the refuge was better than the standard fare. England was playing Algeria in the world cup and it was on the TV but it was less appealing than an early night as the winds began to whistle through the trees and the cold seeped into our bodies. It was a portent of days to come.
Day 10: To Refuge d'Usciolu, 16km, 1645m ascent, 1145m descent, 6:25hrs
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| Drying out in Cave at Bocca di Laparo |
Rain had fallen overnight and we seized a break in the rain to pack and get moving after a simple breakfast in the refuge. It was cold and windy even in the cover of the forest at Bocca di Verdi. An hour into the walk and the rain started and quickly settled into a steady-state, we were cold and grumpy even before we reached Refuge de Prati at 1820 metres and we still had a long series of ridge crests to negotiate at 2000m plus. There were many areas of slabs, easy to walk in the dry but testing in the wet conditions and numerous scrambles to complete with a ferocious wind hitting us from the NW every time we crisscrossed the crest. Our hands were numb and we were soaked through despite Goretex jackets, our shorts and shirts just acted like blotting paper.
We had noted in the guide book that there was an unstaffed refuge at Bocca di Laparo for those in a state of desperation. We thought we may qualify. It was locked but I found a shepherd's cave/shelter behind it and a french couple were steaming over an open fire. We joined them and when they left we dried our clothes by the fire, they remained smoked for the rest of the walk. We had some bread and saucisson and brewed some tea. It was a good place to spend almost three hours as the rains continued.
We had noted in the guide book that there was an unstaffed refuge at Bocca di Laparo for those in a state of desperation. We thought we may qualify. It was locked but I found a shepherd's cave/shelter behind it and a french couple were steaming over an open fire. We joined them and when they left we dried our clothes by the fire, they remained smoked for the rest of the walk. We had some bread and saucisson and brewed some tea. It was a good place to spend almost three hours as the rains continued.
But eventually, all good things end and we were once again on the trail and after the first 15 minutes in the shelter of rock and scrub beechwood we re-emerged on the ridge. Ian described the winds as the worst he had encountered despite having worked on North Sea oil rigs, as he danced his way down some exposed slabs like a drunk doing the conga, I sensed this was not mere hyperbole. A couple of hours later we encountered the refuge and without hesitation booked a bunk for the night. We stood comatosed inside the overcrowded dormitory and slowly shed our smoked wet garments. A large plate of pasta and several cups of tea aroused us a little but it was difficult to sleep in a room with about 30 people squeezed like sardines on sleeping platforms in a room of no more than 30 sq. metres.
Day 11: To Refuge d'Asinau, 17km, 1175m ascent, 1410m descent, 7:30hrs
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| Wind, Rain and Hypothermia on Puntadi a Scaddatta |
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| The view from the WC |
We retreated to the kitchen at 6:30am to get some tea and eat some bread and cheese. Conditions had not changed outside and a French Guide sitting opposite felt that the Gardien should warn all walkers from setting out in these conditions. I entered a long conversation with a Canadian academic about the merits of different voting systems and if new technology could transfer power from the parties to the voter. It was one way of deferring our departure until 7:45am.
We were soon on the exposed ridge again. We made a couple of mistakes when trying to find our way along the route, the red and white flashes were difficult to spot in the mist and rogue tracks lost us quite a lot of height. The wind and rain continued to lash us as we once again slalomed along the crest of the ridge. In these conditions, it took almost 3 hours to reach Bocca di l'Agnonu, half an hour longer than the guide book time. Then we started the descent and emerged on a long easy section across open land with grazing cattle and pigs. We seemed to meander across a number of valleys before starting the climb to I Pedinieddi, the only bivouac site on the walk. We met a few walkers coming the other way, they looked as shattered as we felt. They told us that conditions over Monte Alcudina were atrocious.
We stopped for a brew and to decide whether to continue or hunker down at the bivvy site until the next day. An hour later the rain had finally abated and although the massive hulk that was Mte Alcudine was still draped in the cloud the prospect of not continuing was not our style. It was a good decision, as we climbed the clouds loosened their hold and we eventually had only a fresh wind and views as we topped out this mountain. The descent was steeper and more difficult with quite a bit of climbing down wet pitches and Ian's leg was beginning to slow his progress. We completed the descent and rounded the final section and saw the ponies and tents at Refuge d'Asinau.
We were able to dry the tents in the breeze and later in the evening we were treated to fine views of the Bavella Pinnacles, the doorless WC, in particular, provided a fine balcony view. A meal of lentils and charcouterie and a beer cheered us up. At last, we were within striking distance of the finish with two relatively easy stages ahead.
We were able to dry the tents in the breeze and later in the evening we were treated to fine views of the Bavella Pinnacles, the doorless WC, in particular, provided a fine balcony view. A meal of lentils and charcouterie and a beer cheered us up. At last, we were within striking distance of the finish with two relatively easy stages ahead.
Day12: To Bavella and Refuge d'I Paliri, 15km, ascent 795m, descent 1225m, 7:05hrs
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| Through the maquis on the Crete du Pargulu |
We found an Auberge and deposited ourselves for a long slow lunch and time to recover for the last section of the walk to Refuge d' I Paliri. It was a series of steep descents and ascents through spectacular scenery before we arrived at the refuge. A splendid site with flat pitches, great views and a small refuge where we could cook our emergency rations on the last night. Dehydrated couscous and curry did not really do it for us and we were a lot more greedy when it came to emptying a large pan of spaghetti offered to us by some French walkers. I had developed a very sore left leg and an uncomfortable layer of hard skin on my right big toe which meant an uncomfortable night. John initially thought the left leg may be shin splints from the length of the walk and the heavy rucksack but subsequently pronounced it was cellulitis (heavy swelling from infection through cuts, grazes etc) which turned out to be the case.
Day13: To Concha and St Nicholais, 15km, ascent 400m, descent, 1175m, 5:30hrs
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| Bye Bye Bavella |
We had planned to leave at 7am to reach Concha at 1pm. Ian's wife, Beatrix, was to pick us up there. We had figured that Ian's leg and my leg and toe would slow us down quite a bit. We eventually left at 7:30am and with both Ian and I dependent on walking poles, he texted her to make the rendezvous at 2pm. There was a sting in the tail of the walk, there were some steep climbs and some even steeper descents as we crossed a number of valleys, this was not the easy canter through the foothills that we had hoped for. But we ploughed on and descended from the spectacular Bavella rock formations and into the maquis. The last 200 metres of descent was on switchback roads through the village.
By sheer coincidence we arrived at the finish line and, as we crossed it, the church bells chimed 1 o' clock. I had given this as our ETA on the day that Beatrix had dropped us off at Calenzana. We had to search the village to find the hotel where we were to meet Beatrix, and needless to say, it involved ascending another hill and then, although it was closed, Ian blagged us in for a couple of beers, the kind and trusting owner was going out so she left us to serve ourselves at the bar whilst we waited for Beatrix. She gathered in her charges and an hour later we sat dangling feet into the Mediterranean, baguette and goat's cheese in hand and memories slowly falling into place from this magnificent but most challenging of walks.
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| The finish line at Conca - beers imminent |
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| Memories
Several people have asked about the highlights. Undoubtedly the Cirque de la Solitude (Day 3) is special and taxes the body mentally and physically, but the route over Breche de Capitellu (Day 6) is equally spectacular and provides exposure and stunning mountain scenery. The most enjoyable easy day is to Lac du Ninu and over to Manganu (Day 5). The walk through the forests from Vizzavona to Bergeries d' e Capenello is also straightforward and relaxing with a great lunch available, if you double up the stages. The best food is at the Bergeries de l'Onda- it deserves a Michelin star and is hugely unpretentious. What would I take if going again? Waterproof trousers and a spare camera battery, not that I ran out, its just that I would have taken more movie shots if I had a spare. The scenery was outstanding we met some wonderful friends who shared and helped each other throughout the walk. 45 of us set out from Calenzana on Day 1 but only 6 finished the walk, ourselves, the French guide and 2 Dutch walkers in what had been extreme conditions for June. Some of the others had planned to do just half the walk, others dropped out after the thunderstorms at the end of Day 5 or during the rains/wind on Days 10 and 11. We met the French guide at the airport as we flew back to Paris the day after finishing. He told us that he was surprised that anyone completed the walk given the conditions on Days 10 and 11, he thought our Scottish experience had probably given us an advantage.
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| Le Fin |
GR20 Equipment List
Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian 60 litre rucksack
Hilleberg Akto tent
Mountain Equipment down sleeping bag
Short Therm-a-rest inflatable sleeping mat
Clothing/Footwear
1 long sleeve Icebreaker merino top
1 short sleeve Icebreaker merino top
1 short sleeve Helly Hensen top
2 pair underpants
1 pair Montane shorts
1 pair lightweight trail trousers
1 lightweight fleece
1 pair Smartwool PHD socks
1 pair wool socks
Gloves – lightweight Polertec
Salomon Cosmic Boots
Adidas Wanaka Goretex Shoes (for the evening and 2 stages)
Berghaus Paclite Goretex Jacket
Equipment
Camera Canon Ixus 950 IS
Blackberry
Maps - IGN of the route
Wash kit (toothbrush, toothpaste, razor, soap)
Small towel
Small towel
Sun cream
Sun glasses
Hat – baseball style (lost one and found one on route)
Headtorch - Petzl
MSR microrocket stove (shared)
Pan 1 litre (shared)
Cup
Plate
Titanium Spoon/Fork
Swiss Army Knife
Plastic Dish
Platyplus 2 litre hydration bladder and drinking tube
1 litre plastic bottle
Matches
First aid kit (shared)
Notebook and pen
Cicerone Gide GR20 by Paddy Dillon
Cash 400 euros
Food/Drink
Bag mixed nuts/ raisins
3 tubes fruit pastilles
Dried bananas
3 tubes fruit pastilles
Dried bananas
6 Nutri-Grain bars
Savoury Rice (2)
Cup a Soup (4)
Tea bags
Cup a Soup (4)
Tea bags
Energy drink powder
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