Ben Bheula

Heading up the glen

Waterfall on Lettermay Burn

Final climb through new wet snow

On the summit

Eagle carcass?

Descent towards Lochan nan Cnaimh

Wednesday, 18 April 2012

Distance:           12km

Ascent:              845m

Time:                 5hrs 5mins

Beinn Bheula        779metres   2hrs 21mins

Today was a rare occurrence, a lazy outing on Beinn Bheula, a Corbett in a remote corner of Argyll. Moreover, I was with John and Keith, two walking companions with whom I had walked on hundreds of occasions and partnered in various mountain marathons. We were now all retired. The three of us had first climbed together in December 1990 on Ben Lui when we had chiselled our way up the northeast ridge which was coated in verdigris. Today for once we were in no hurry, it was not a competition and being retired we had no need to make it a 10 hour day or to do another couple of hills. 

We left at 9am and drove to the top of the Rest and Be Thankful and then down to Lochgoilhead and looked around the village before setting off for the hidden Beinn Bheula. Apart from a fleeting visit during the 1991 Karrimor Mountain Marathon, I had not been here since 1976 when I had paddled across Loch Long to a friend's remote cottage on Loch Goil in an inflatable canoe towing a mackerel line to catch my supper. I was surprised at the development that had taken place over the years with large static caravan sites and a hundred or so chalets.  Despite the difficult access, the place seemed to be lively even this early in the season. 

We parked at Lettermay, a couple of miles beyond Lochgoilhead and began our walk up an old track eventually following the Lettermay burn until it became impassable and then wading across the swollen river. We found a trail which took us nearer to the mountain. The steep climbing began at a waterfall that was host to a bank of primroses. We drifted along, reliving past exploits and planning future days in the hills or on bikes. In the past, we had to walk at weekends whatever the weather, now we were now free to choose our days to get out.  We wondered whether the blueish skies would remain or if the promised hail and snow showers would get this far driven by the cold northeasterly winds.

It was a continuous steep pull up a grassy slope above until we reached a gulley at about 620 metres that leads onto the summit plateau. It was plastered with wet snow which made for a difficult climb.  As we arrived at the trig point, black clouds rolled in from the northeast and within minutes we were enveloped in a blizzard. Wrapped in waterproofs we took a bearing for Creag Sgoitte and then followed the steep grassy slopes and turned to the east until we eventually emerged into the sunshine with splendid views down to Lochan nan Cnaimh.  We found the aircraft crash with the wing of the American built Grumman Martlet still intact after 60 years. It had wings that folded as it was designed for use on aircraft carriers, so Keith and I checked that the wings would still fold and they did! 

Arriving at the edge of the forest we endeavoured to find the firebreak but there had been devastation from the winter gales and we spent twenty minutes or so climbing over fallen trees before we found the boggy path down the firebreak. There were similar sections ahead before we arrived at the track that took us back to Lettermay. By this time the sun had reappeared and the last section was a leisurely stroll. In the past, most of our walks would have been completed at dusk with a night in a tent, cup-a-soup and savoury rice for nourishment and the prospect of wet socks to start the next day. We returned via Arrochar, Balloch and Gartmore, where we stopped for afternoon tea with Keith's friend, a professor who lived in the gatehouse and had built an architect-designed extension that had an inspiring view of the local woodland. I was home at 5pm in time for a soak in the bath. Normally we would still have two hills and 8 or 9 kilometres to go at this hour.