Loch Coruisk

Turner - Loch Coruisk

Blue Rum

Bella Jane trip to Loch Coruisk

Loch Coruisk and Skye ridge

Wild swimming in Loch Coruisk

Loch Scavaig evening splendour

Some of my favourite things

Oh happy day 

The fourth day of solid sunshine is a rarity on the West Coast but today we were in luck for our wedding anniversary. The light was so clear that we could see that a visit to Skye would reap rich rewards. I have spent over twenty days on the Skye ridge including several perfect ones. But I had never been to Loch Coruisk, the approach from the south, which is always considered one of the great seascape/landscape interfaces. I suggested the trip at breakfast and after a lazy start we set out and drove to Plockton first and then to Skye. 

From Broadford, we went through Torrin, passing below the inviting hulk of Bla Bheinn and then down the Strathaird peninsula to Elgol. We arrived in the early afternoon and after buying some home-made lobster rolls at the village shop we embarked on the Bella Jane for the half-hour crossing over Loch Scavaig to Loch na Cuilce, an inlet heaving with common seals that is just a ten-minute walk from Loch Coruisk.  In the other direction, Rum and Eigg were wavy blue lines above the flat translucent blue sea.

Leaving the boat we followed the rough path into the amphitheatre of Loch Coruisk.  The skyline was as sharp as a ripsaw, the familiar pinnacles of the Skye ridge were all recognisable. Am Baister and Sgurr nan Gillean were the most obvious, but by crossing the stepping stones and following the east shore of the loch, the familiar profiles of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and the Inaccessible Pinnacle also revealed themselves. Aileen was impressed, even more so when we reached the point where the glorious Loch Coruisk was unwrapped in its springtime majesty. Turner's great painting was dark and austere by comparison.

It was as hot as it gets in Scotland (27°C) so I decided that this was the day for a wild swim. The rough black gabbro rock, which normally provides a perfect grip on land, did not work below the waterline, a layer of algae provided an unintended greasy slide for my feet. I skidded down the steep incline and into the deep Coruisk water without having time to brace myself. Surprisingly it was warm enough to spend a few minutes in the water although I resisted the challenge of swimming over to the island. I emerged from the water and up the slippy rocks with all the grace of a seal on land and then sun-dried and gently baked myself on the rock ledge before returning to the boat.  

We joined the groups of heavily camera clad French, German, Canadian and American visitors who were unaware of what a privileged day they had chosen for this excursion. The sun was illuminating the Cuillins like a spotlight and we were enjoying the tranquil journey back when some dolphins were seen about a mile away. The captain of the Bella Jane changed course and when we reached the pod, we were entertained to a 15-minute spectacular performance by about 120 dolphins as they raced the boat and performed graceful manoeuvres at close quarters. Even the captain was moved by the relationship the dolphins established with the 25 or so passengers, several of whom were getting through memory cards for their cameras quicker than they would have done a box of film in pre-digital days.  It was an utterly magical interlude. The Cuillins provided the backdrop for a synchronised swimming display that needed no make-up.

We arrived back in Elgol just before six and returned to Stromeferry where we spent a couple of hours sitting outside celebrating our anniversary and eating al fresco. We indulged ourselves with more local produce including cheese and ice cream from the excellent West Highland Dairy at Achmore before the midges emerged as the sun slipped below the hills at 9pm. It had been a favourite day in a magical place with Aileen.