KYQ4: Rob Roy Way: Killin to Acharn

Dochert Falls, Killin

Tuesday, 23 February 2016

Ascent: 780 metres
Distance: 27 kilometres
Time: 6 hours 7 minutres

Creag Gharbh 637m 2hrs 13mins
Ardeonaig 3hrs 38mins
Ardtalnaig 4hrs 42mins
Acharn 6hrs 7mins

After the coldest night of the year, there was the promise of a dry sunny day although further north there would be clouds and strong winds. I had hoped to climb some Corbetts but the ones that I have left to climb are all in the north-west. I did not relish the prospect of a long drive and missing the rare chance of a decent day so decided to make some more progress on the Rob Roy Way. We had started three years ago on a north-to-south walk but the next stage from Aberfeldy to Acharn was difficult to arrange as the public transport did not fit unless we left home at 6:30am to catch the school bus from Killin to Aberfeldy. So it had been put on indefinite hold.

I decided that I should do the third section from Acharn to Killin on my own, it includes a long road section and the highest climb of the route, which would also allow me to climb an adjacent Graham. The transport was still awkward so I reversed the route so that I could start from Killin and hope to catch the school bus back from Acharn to Killin. This would also allow me to do the climbing first and leave the 15 kilometres along the road for the afternoon.

I parked in Killin just after 9:30 a.m. and began the walk by crossing the bridge over the River Dochart. It was still below freezing and the falls were sparkling in the morning sun. The first couple of kilometres on leaving Killin were along the single-track road to Ardeonaig and I was pleased to see that it had been resurfaced, although the timber lorries were making short work of wrecking the road edges again. At the bridge where the Achmore Burn descends to Loch Tay, there is a forestry road that climbs steeply for 4 kilometres to the Lochan Breaclaich reservoir. There were quite a few forestry operations in progress and the views over to the Ben Lawers range were restricted by the plantations. There is a gate at the end of the forest and a radio mast before the final calming winding section of the road to the reservoir. I followed a path to the south end of the dam so that I could walk across it before climbing the rough track that runs alongside the reservoir before climbing under Creag Gharbh.

Creag Gharbh is not on the Rob Roy Way but a Graham nevertheless so deserved a visit. I left the track where it veers sharply to the right and began to climb through deep soft snow. Despite the cold, I was soon sweating and found a sheepfold beneath the summit to put on some gaiters and take a drink. The final climb was hard work, each step was a thigh-deep plunge into the snow until I reached the summit ridge. The prominent cairn is a splendid viewpoint and I spent 10 minutes enjoying the views and taking photos. Unfortunately, the early morning sun had given way to a layer of cloud but visibility was still very good. I had intended to return to the track, which would have given me an easy route down to Ardeonaig but the long ridge to the northeast was too tempting. The descent was a tough workout through deep snow, peat hags and rough ground before I was able to cut under Stuc Mhor and reach the track down to Brae farm and from there the road down to Ardeonaig.

This was part of Ardeonaig that was new territory for me, I passed the large Outdoor Centre with its magnificent stand of trees and through farmland where sheep, goats and cattle were grazing before arriving at the Ardeonaig hotel on the Lake road. Although It was 1:20pm I decided to push on the long 14-kilometre walk along the single-track road to Acharn. The cloud cover had pushed in from the north and it seemed cooler than it had been on the tops in the morning. There was little traffic but nowhere to stop and enjoy the views and have some lunch. I kept walking until just before the next settlement of Ardtalnaig; I found a bridge with a dry stone parapet where I emptied my rucksack of food and drink.

Ardtalnaig does not have many houses but a major waterworks pipeline project was in progress. I walked through at pace and began the last leg of the walk to Acharn. It was almost 3pm and I had no time to waste if I was to catch the one bus of the day from Acharn at 4:05pm. There were several expensive modern houses under construction near Kepranich, all taking advantage of the spectacular views down Loch Tay and across to the Ben Lawers range of mountains. The sun had also reappeared and the afternoon had a springtime feel about it. The catkins were providing a hint of fluorescent green on the willow trees, which had colonised the badly broken stone walls that lined the road. Several people were gardening and the traffic increased as the construction workers finished their day and the school car runs began.

I ran much of the last couple of kilometres to be sure of catching the bus but I made it in good time, although the bus was early as it disgorged the local children and began its journey back to Killin. The bus is primarily for the pupils attending Aberfeldy Academy and I was the only non-school passenger. The journey to Killin allowed me to observe my route for the day from the opposite side of the Loch and realise that whilst it may have been relatively flat walk 27 kilometres are still quite a distance.