KYQ4: Isle of Coll

Hogh Bay

Coll Hotel - New extension

With the end of the lockdown, we began to think about where could we go to escape for a few days. We had no intention of flying or taking a train so decided on the Isle of Coll, a staple destination for Aileen since she had family holidays there in the 1960s. The only place open was the hotel so we booked for 6 days on the assumption that the CalMac ferry would eventually begin to operate a timetable, albeit with social distancing. We had a few nervous days unable to obtain a booking until CalMac were allowed to reduce social distancing and increase the capacity of their boats.

We caught the early boat on Sunday morning, which meant a 4:00 a.m. start from home to bypass the road closure at Callander and park at a friend's house in Oban. The long stay car park that we have used on previous trips to the isles no longer allows overnight parking. We were the only cyclists catching the ferry, although many of the vehicles were loaded with bikes, boats, boards and trailers. As well as small rucksacks and a couple of small panniers we had two holdalls and had asked if the hotel could pick up our luggage at the Arinagour pier. Alas, this didn't happen so we balanced them on the bikes and pushed and freewheeled to the hotel.

The hotel was extensively modernised last year with a new restaurant, bar and reception area abutting the old building which now houses 10 bedrooms. It was a fresh, sunny morning and after dumping our bags and having a coffee in the garden we set out for the beaches in the north. The fresh sea air filled our lungs and heightened our senses as we pedalled easily across the island and then climbed to Windy Gap. We freewheeled down the wild flower-infused asphalt to Torastan beach, crossing the machair and dumping our bikes in the dunes leading down to the empty clean sandy beach. After a full circuit of the beach on foot, we settled down for a leisurely lunch. It was only 14°C but felt comfortable and the views across to the small isles confirmed that this was a special place.

Our time on the beach was limited by a heavy shower so we retreated to the nearby cemetery where Aileen recalled many of the people she had known during her holidays from their headstones. We were clad in full waterproofs for the return ride and, with the wind behind us, we seemed to freewheel most of the way back to Arinagour. After delighting our palates with a local seafood dinner, the first meal we had not prepared since February, we retired happily exhausted by the freedom of escaping lockdown. The dawn departure, cruising down the Sound of Mull, meeting people, cycling and walking had all reinvigorated our spirits.

And so the week continued, with 5 dry days out of six and three days with some sunshine as we cycled 15 to 20 miles every day. We walked across Feall Bay, Crossapol Bay, Hogh Bay, Cliad Bay, the Cornaig beaches, Struan Bay, Sorisdale Bay, climbed Ben Hogh and visited the RSPB site at Totronald. We were chased across the fields from Crossapol Bay to Feall Bay by a bull and six bullocks, although to be fair there had been a notice saying beware of the Bulls. We promenaded through the village every evening and visited the new Community Centre, An Cruidhe, that opened shortly after our last visit. We met and spoke to many of the islanders who seemed to have been largely unaffected by the lockdown apart from losing the mainstay of their economy, visitors. The cafe had closed, and the B&B and bunkhouse had yet to open so the number of visitors was less than usual.

The man who runs the half marathon was refurbishing the shop and told us he had cancelled this year's event. He had been impressed by last year's winning time, a new record in atrocious conditions. We told him that we knew the winner, Gregor. We met Shane, the basking shark operator and friend of Gregor, he had just started for the season taking groups out every day to swim alongside the sharks. We heard about the conflicts about wind turbines, the island had decided against a community scheme that would have attracted grants and instead, there were numerous private turbines on the outlying farms and properties. We were told that the weather patterns seemed to have changed in recent years with more northerly winds in spring bringing drier sunnier but cooler weather that was causing water supply difficulties. A friendly local couple invited us to join them in their 'sitooterie', a large shed on Main Street that overlooked the harbour and served drinks to friends.

The evening meals in the hotel were mainly a smorgasbord of local shellfish or catches of fresh mackerel. The beer garden wafted by the mellifluous sea air was well used on those evenings when the sun shone. We met someone from near home who was building a new house and he invited us out to see the building as plumbers from Oban were installing the underfloor heating system. The highlight was the nearby beach at Struan which provided another wonderful venue for a picnic lunch with Eigg and Rum for company.

We left the island on an overcast Saturday, the ferry seemed fuller and social distancing seemed to have lost its imperative. We went on deck for the cruise down the Sound of Mull on a grey day. Arriving in Oban there were massive queues of vehicles heading out to the islands. The summer staycation was obviously in full flow, we were relieved to have managed to enjoy the quiet week at the end of lockdown. We found a place close to the ferry terminal to leave our bikes and luggage whilst I walked up the nearby hill to collect the car from Shane's drive and then load up the bikes. The roads from Oban to Tyndrum were nose-to-tail with traffic. If Nicola Sturgeon, the first minister, had seen this she would have confiscated everyone's ignition keys after apologising for how much she knows that this is difficult for everyone.