KYQ4: Beinn a' Chreachain and Beinn Achaladair

Beinn a' Chreachain from its Lochan

Route clockwise from Achalladar

Thursday, 7 September 2023

Ascent: 1238

Distance: 24 kilometres

Time: 7 hours 3 minutes

Beinn a' Chreachain 1081m. 3hrs. 45mins

Beinn Achaladair. 1038m. 4hrs 56mins

It was our second day of walking after a spectacular 10 hours, 26 kilometres and 48.000 steps in the Eastern Mamores yesterday. Having decided to forego an overnight camp at Kinlochewe, as it was going dark and the midges were in full rapacious eating mood, we did not get home until 10:30pm.. Neither John nor I felt ready for another long day, but both insisted we were good for another walk. We left home at 9am, having dallied over breakfast, but we were really stalling for time.

There was a morning fog that had burnt off by the time we reached the new parking spot at Achallader. We decided to walk up the Water of Tulla so we could climb Beinn a'Chreachain from its northern Corrie. It was a beautiful walk along a serene but empty glen where few people ever venture. It involved a couple of river crossings in addition to the old bridge at Barrvourich. The final crossing at the end of the remaining Caledonia Pine Forest was a gymnastic course as we tottered over the boulders. We had ten minutes in the sun before heading through the rampant vegetation up to the railway line that crosses Rannoch Moor. Then the climb is a steady slog alongside the impressive Allt Coire an Lochan that cascades over the bedding rock. We were not moving very fast in the heat of the noon sun, and we were still suffering from yesterday's long walk.

We reached the Lochan a' Chreachain, which is at 700 metres and sits below the impressive cliffs that cast a shadow across the lochan even in the early afternoon. We then had a 400 metre climb up a wide gulley to its north-east ridge and then along to the summit. It had taken about an hour longer than we had anticipated, partly due to the long walk in, partly the heat, but mainly because we are not as sprightly as we were and hadn't factored that into our route planning. We had 15 minutes on the summit for a late lunch and then began the steep descent to Meall Buidhe. It was easy going compared to the previous couple of hours, and we made good time to Beinn Achaladair. The 225 metre climb is initially up a rocky staircase that involves some scrambling, but, if anything, it makes the climb quicker.

I have always loved the spectacular balcony view over Loch Tulla and to Glencoe from Beinn Achaladair, and we once again took some time to refresh our memories of it. I remember sitting here in 2004 at the very start of what became my fourth round and contemplating what's next in life with our children all away and perhaps having another 5 or 6 years until retirement. I had been headhunted for jobs in a large London Borough, Cumbria and a large Scottish Council and was also due to become the chair of the Scottish Chief Executives, which would be quite an onerous proposition. Sitting on Beinn Achaladair, the views made the decision for me. A fourth round of Munros followed, achieved in a record time of 3 years 9 months and just 80 days on the hills; it was the perfect antidote to long hours at work with innumerable meetings, dinners and talks at conferences.

The blue skies had disappeared, and clouds were gathering as we set off to make a quick descent down to the bealach below Beinn a' Dothaidh. We wasted no time beginning the descent from here to Achalladair as the heavens opened and we heard the thunder clouds booming in the east. The rain quickly converted what was a dry path into a boggy burn. It was 4.5 kilometres back to the car, and our pace was slowed by the heavy rain and the subsequent slippery path. The new large car park is a mile before the old parking, close to Achalladair House and Tower. Presumably, it was shifted there to reduce the amount of traffic in the vicinity of the house. The so-called path that cuts across from the glen is a parody of the path, more a linear bog and a suitable epitaph for the loss of what was once a pleasant route to the bealach.