Friday 8 September 2023

Beinn a' Chreachain and Beinn Achaladair

Beinn a' Chreachain from its Lochan


Thursday, 7 September 2023

Ascent:     1238
Distance:   24 kilometres
Time:         7 hours 3 minutes

Beinn a' Chlachair      1081m.   3hrs. 45mins
Beinn Achaladair.       1038m.   4hrs  56mins

It was our second day of walking after 10 hours, 26 kilometres and 48.000 steps yesterday. We did not return home until 10:30 p.m. Having decided tp forego an overnight camp at Kinlochewe as it was going dark and the midges were in full rapacious eating mood. Neither John or I felt ready for a repeat but both insisted we were good for another walk. We did not leave home until after 9 a.m. having dallied over breakfast but we were really stalling for time. 

There was a morning fog that had burnt off by the time we reached the new parking spot at Achallader. We decided to walk up the Water of Tulla so we could climb Beinn a'Chreachain from its northern Corrie. It was a beautiful walk along a serene but empty Glen where few people ever venture. It involved a couple of river crossings in addition to the old bridge at Barrvourich. The final crossing at the end of the remaining Caledonia Pine Forest was a bit of a gymnastic course as we tottered over the boulders. We had ten minutes in the sun before heading through the rampant vegetation up to the railway line that crosses Rannoch Moor. Then climb is steady slog alongsisde the impressive Allt Coire an Lochan that cascades over the bedding rock. We were not moving very fast in the heat of the noon sun and we were still suffering from yesterday's long walk.

We reached the Lochan a' Chreachain that is at 700 metres and sits below the impressive cliffs that provide a shadow across the lochan even in the early afternoon. We then had a 400 metre climb up to its north-east ridge and then along to the summit. It had taken about an hour longer than we had anticipated, partly due to the long walk in, partly the heat and mainly because we are not as sprightly as we were but haven't quite factored in to our route planning. We had 15 minutes on the summit for a late lunch and then began the steep descent to Meall Buidhe. It was easy going compared to the previous couple of hours and we made good time to Beinn Achaladair. The 225 metre climb is initially up a rocky staircase that involves some scrambling but, if anything, it makes the climb quicker.

I have always loved the spectacular balcony view over Loch Tulla and to Glencoe from Beinn Achaladair and we once again took some time to refresh our memories of it. I remember sitting here in 2004 at the start of the fourth round and contemplating what next in life with our children all away and perhaps having another 5 or 6 years until retirement. It prompted a decision to attempt a fourth round of Munros achieved in double quick time - 3 years 9 months, rather than seeking a different job.

The blue skies had disappeared and clouds were gathering as ewe set off to make a quick descent down to the bealach below Beinn a' Dothaidh. We wasted no time beginning the descent from here to Achalladair as the heavens opened and we heard the thunder clouds booming in the east. It is quite a long time since I came up by this route and the rain quickly converted what was a dry path into a wet path with boggy sections. It was 4.5 kilometres back to the car and our speed was restricted by the rain and subsequent slippery path. The new large car park is a mile before the old parking close to Achalladair House and Tower. Presumably shifted there to reduce the amount of traffic in the vicinity of the house. The so called path that cuts across from the glen is a parody of the path, more a linear bog and a suitable epitaph for the loss of what was once a pleasant route to the bealach.


Water of Tulla

Beinn Achaladair and Beinn a' Dothaid from Water of Tulla

Highland Line at Crannach

The path up to Coire an Lochain

John beginning the descent from Beinn a' Chreachain

Beinn Achaladair from Meall Buidhe

Loch Tulla from Beinn Achaladair

Route clockwise from Achalladar

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