Shetland Reflections and St Ninian's Isle

St Ninian's Isles from Bigton

Looking back across the Tombolo to Bigton

Twelve months ago I set foot on Shetland for the first time and since then I have spent about 25 weeks there, particularly during the depths of the winter, the spring and mid-summer.  I have managed to walk on most parts of the isles and have recently taken to repeating walks to favourite haunts, although as the nights draw in that is no longer possible apart from at weekends. Most mornings in Lerwick I walked or ran around the Knab, which is one of the best short-town walks anywhere.

I have tried and failed to get to Fair Isles to complete all the 19 Marilyn hills in Shetland on four occasions, the latest being yesterday when I could get a flight there but not back. Instead, I managed to get a seat on the extra flight to Glasgow for the school holidays. I may have to leave Fair Isles for future years as there are no more Saturday flights this year and my work is almost done, I doubt that I will need to return.

After watching the World Cup rugby quarter-finals early in the morning I had 45 minutes to spare on the way to the airport. It gave me the chance to visit one of my favourite places: St Ninian's Isle.  I have walked around the isle on 5 or 6 occasions in all seasons and most weathers and made a dozen or so excursions across the tombolo, some at midnight in midsummer, but usually on days like today when I am travelling to or from Sumburgh airport. This was the first decent day in the week and it was a relief to escape the winds and rains that have hurtled themselves at Shetland all week. There were more exploration vessels harboured in Lerwick on Wednesday than I have ever seen before, presumably, they were seeking some respite from the gales.

Several folk have asked me for my favourite walks or locations so here goes from north to south.

• Hermaness, Unst for the bird life and coastal scenery up to Muckle Flugga
• Fethaland for the splendid coastal walk and sense of being as far as you can go
• Uyea for the wildness and remoteness
• Da-lang-ayre for its red sands, big cliffs and inaccessibility
• Eshaness for the cliffs, the Geos and the seascapes
• Nibbon for a serene Sunday evening
• Muckle Roe as a whole with the Hams as the highlight 
• Sandness Hill and Deepdale for the sea views and rolling landscapes
• Eswick and Lingness for early morning seascapes and good company
• The Knab in Lerwick, the perfect start or finish to any day
• Noss a glorious excursion during the nesting season
• Foula for its brutal beauty on the edge of the world
• West Burra beyond Papil, beaches, cliffs, seals and views
• St Ninian's Isle

And given just two or three hours, well I guess I would do the full circuit of St. Ninians Isle. It has it all including fond memories of hospitality from the Budge family who farm the isle. When I asked a number of Shetlanders for their favourites the list was endless including some of the above and someone even suggested Montys, Lerwick's vaguely bohemian restaurant. Shetland has been a life-affirming experience and the people I have met and worked with have shown me the importance of community living in a harsh but inspiring environment. Shetland is a caring and wildsome place.

St Ninian's Isle Chapel