Handa Island

Cliffs at the head of the path

Handa Island is a Nature Reserve run by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. We visited 40 years ago with our 11-month-old in a baby carrier as we dodged the Great Skuas walking across the island to the cliffs that host colonies of seabirds, It was one of those unforgettable memories from the magic of parenthood, our daughter's first word was "bird". We had hoped to visit again but it is a long journey north and we did not expect the reserve to be open so soon after lockdown eased. As we passed the road to Tarbert we noticed that the ferry was working so drove down more out of interest than any expectation. To our surprise, the RIB was running and better still the cafe was open so we were able to eat out for only the second time in six months whilst we waited for the RIB to return from its earlier trip. 

It is only a ten-minute journey across to Handa in the powerful RIB, far faster than the old motorboat. There was only us and a couple from Kent and their young son but 18 people had made the trip on the day, the busiest since the mobs of last summer. We landed on the beach where we were met by Johnny, the warden, and one of the volunteers who explained the island, the birdlife and some of the work of the volunteers. 

The sun had decided to welcome our arrival as we set out on the steady climb across the island to the cliffs at the northwest side. Numerous rabbits were nibbling the grass and burrows were everywhere. We passed the old shielings, the clearances had resulted in the inhabitants being transported to Canada. We followed the well-maintained path through the moorland where dozens of Great Skuas were establishing their nests. With no chicks to protect they were not yet into their attack phase and more interested in setting out their own territory from other pairs of birds. The path arrives at the cliff edge, 300 feet of red sandstone, with ledges occupied by razorbills, kittiwake and fulmars. The puffins had only just started arriving back and were presumably tidying out their burrows.

We had been told that there were regular visits from sea eagles that usually resulted in an air battle with the Skuas, but there were none today. Despite the cold temperature, the rays of the sun gave some warmth as we began the long return along the cliff edge. As the path descends there is a long winding boardwalk through the boggier ground. A working party were extending the boardwalk and explained the technicalities of construction to us. They were living in a bothy with a food delivery arriving every fortnight. They also warned us that the RIB had been grounded at Tarbert as a result of a very low spring tide and there would be no return journeys for an hour or so.

We sauntered back and spent time talking to the warden and other visitors before waiting on the beach for the RIB. We volunteered to go on the second trip as the capacity of the RIB was 12 and relaxed in the sand dunes for another twenty minutes. We decided to take the longer scenic route back from Tarbert by Fanogmore and Foindle and were rewarded by some wonderful scenery as the sea and inland lochans mingled with copses of yellow gorse. The Sutherland mountains had been hidden in the cloud until today now revealed themselves, adding wonder to what had been a perfect day.

Old Shielings

The path from the landing bay

Moorland path

Nesting Stack

Pathwork above the cliff

Kittiwake nesting

Great Wall

Kittiwake

Quinag in cloud

Great Skua protecting its territory

RIB in Sound of Handa

Rushing for the RIB at Port an Eilein

Tarbert Cafe

Ben Stack from Foindle

Arkle from Foindle